Chesterfield Reef … It’s For the Birds!

Midway between Vanuatu and Australia lies a tiny group of uninhabited islets and a semi-sheltered lagoon surrounded by a barrier reef. A veritable Coral Sea seabird rookery, Chesterfield Reef is a nature lover’s paradise.

There were a few challenges for a yacht stopping at Chesterfield Reef, the primary one being that since Chesterfield Reef is owned by New Caledonia and hence France, most boats stop illegally and the French don't like it one bit. The area, however, is seldom patrolled, so the risk of being caught is low. We were aware of at least one boat that was ordered to Noumea (New Caledonia's capital city) under patrol boat escort and their boat was impounded until they paid a hefty fine. We had not checked into New Caledonia, nor had we asked permission to stop. Luckily, we were able to join the return leg of the Brisbane-Vanuatu rally coordinated by our friends, Alan & Debbie Profke of Paradise Lodge in  Vanuatu. They had secured permission from New Caledonia Customs for their participating boats to stop legally and had provided us with a formal letter and copy of the Customs permit. It pays to have friends in the right places. We did not, however, ever have to use our paperwork.

We left Vanuatu in late October 2011 with 15-20 kts SE winds forecast and for once, the forecast lived up to expectation. Other than one night, the trip was fast and smooth and thoroughly enjoyable. Our stop at Chesterfield Reef was outstanding and certainly beyond our wildest dreams. Leaving Luganville, Vanuatu through the Segund Channel, we were surprised and thoroughly enchanted by hundreds of caper white butterflies flitting past the boat. Several boobies (brown and red-footed) hitchhiked en route. We didn't mind offering free passage on our whisker pole, but the mess they left behind was nearly overwhelming.

Chesterfield Reef - Coral Sea - 19S53.05 / 158E27.75 - 56'

573nm and 4 sailing days from Luganville and we were anchored in the middle of the Coral Sea at Chesterfield Reef. This pristine spot is virtually untouched by man (other than debris washed ashore). This is a place for birds to breed and rest and sea turtles to lay their eggs. It's magic!

A worn sign proclaimed we were at Chesterfield Archipelago - French territory since 1877.

Chesterfield Reef ... It's "for the birds"

Thousands of birds nest, breed, rest and thrive here. The cacophony of bird sound was staggering, mind-boggling. We wandered around several little islets trying hard not to disturb the residents. Most times, they were totally oblivious to us. We took over a thousand pictures. Here are some of our favorite bird and islet pics. Remember, you can click on the thumbnail to enlarge the photo.

The island is arid and the flora consists primarily of scrub, bush and sand. Reefs surround the islets providing good protection for the birds ashore and boats in the anchorage. The place was so thick with birds, it was nearly overwhelming at times with noise. Thousands of birds circled, swooped and darted about. When something spooked them all of a sudden, they would all take to flight at once.

It was hard to leave a place like this, but…

So ends another adventure. Only ~450 nm to Bundaberg, Australia where another adventure awaited us. We headed to Australia where we planned to participate in the festivities of the Port 2 Port Rally and get acquainted with a new country and a new continent Down Under. Join us!