Kingscote, Kangaroo Island

Half of Kangaroo Island's population of 4,000 people live in the vicinity of Kingscote. It's the commercial and shopping hub of the island. We motored the 15 miles or so in flat calm waters from Eastern Cove and anchored off the port. After confirming that 1) there were still no rental cars available and 2) we were too late to go on a tour, we decided lunch in town and a walk around Kingscote would have to do.

A rather odd thing happened as we were hauling anchor in Eastern Cove. A bee flew in from the island and landed on the windscreen. I saw him and thwacked him off with a snap of my fingers. He flew back and landed a few feet away. I thwacked him again. And again, he moved a few feet away and landed. I figured he was interested in a lift to Kingscote to visit friends and family or look for work and keen to find a ride. The third time, I let him rest. I read that the Ligurian bees on Kangaroo Island are quite famous and unique … who was I to mess with insect fame?

Kingscote boasts that it's the first official European settlement in South Australia. The British barque Duke of York anchored in Nepean Bay on July 27, 1836 and established Reeves Point as a formal settlement. The Visitor Info kiosk is part of the KI souvenir shop and a Kingscote brochure was easily obtained. There were several walking tours described, but the best was a 4km walk along the beach to historic Reeves Point with lots of historic info placards strategically placed along the way.

We walked along a boardwalk through a protected blue penguin (aka little penguin) reserve. Penguins are nocturnal and this happens to be breeding season, so nobody was at home, but we did see their little fabricated huts along the tufted hillside.

It was the bottom of the low tide as we walked along the shore, traipsing through shells and debris along the wrack line. I found several pieces of well worn sea glass to add to my “I'll do something constructive with it later” collection. We passed the remains of old jetties, lost long ago to wind, sea and weather, a few errant pilings the only reminders of their existence.

At Reeves Point, we headed up to Flagstaff Hill for better views of the bay. En route, we came across The Mulberry Tree, originally planted in 1836 by the first settlers. It has some support nowadays to keep it upright, but it still purportedly bears fruit each year.

The climb to Flagstaff Hill wasn't difficult, it's not that high, but the panoramic views were indeed lovely. We saw the foundations of old home sites along the way and thought the early settlers definitely had a rough time of it, but their choice of house locations were spot on.

Back to town via the original settlers' cemetery. This is always an interesting stop for us. We learn so much from the epitaphs and gravestones. The children seemed to have the worst time here … sickness, starvation, accidents, all noted on the gravestones. People who died en route and were buried at sea were remembered, as well as those who died in the early years of settlement.

We returned to Kingscote via the Esplanade, high above the shore. Nine of Cups bobbed gently in the waves, her wind gen spinning smartly, toting up amps, so we could watch a movie this evening. A fine day, perhaps not as much as we'd hoped for our time here, but sometimes we take what we can get.

Back to our Ligurian bee hitchhiker … he flew off just as we anchored at Kingscote, obviously figuring he could make his own way from there. We bought some KI honey in his honor.

Exploring American River, Kangaroo Island

 

There's lots to see on Kangaroo Island (KI), but without a rental car, it's hard to get around. The island is bigger than you'd think ... 93 miles long (150km) and 56 mi (90km) at its widest and though we love walking, this was bit too long a hike for our time here. We opted to explore a bit in the American River area and discover its unique offerings, rather than grouse about what we couldn't see.

With no let up in wind or rain, we spent our first day at anchor on the boat. Just as well, we wanted a feel for the holding power of the new anchor. Launching the dinghy was like flying a kite in 25 knot winds. Getting a wet dinghy butt didn't seem all that attractive, so we were happy to stay put until the sun returned … and it did.

We skirted across the bay and entered the narrow channel in the dinghy which seemed much wider than if we'd been in Cups. We could see the shoaling at the fore markers from all the tidal action.

The first thing that struck us about the area was the number of birds. Black swans swam gracefully, ducking their heads under the surface for breakfast. Long-legged white ibis searched the shallows for their morning meal. Huge Australian pelicans were everywhere … flying, floating, occupying tops of light poles and pilings. We found a place to tie up the dinghy near a boat launch and headed onto shore.

It's evident that this is a small fishing town. Small, moored fishing boats dotted the small harbor. Men fished off the pier. There was a fish measuring station to make sure each catch was within legal limits. Unused fish traps and buoys were piled beside the dock.

As soon as we reached the main road, a flock of yellow-tailed black cockatoos flew by. Though we looked in the listed locations, no rare glossy black cockatoos showed up, nor did the Tammar wallabies that were supposedly in such numbers. Come to think of it, we didn't see many people either. Sunday morning on Kangaroo Island and KI Cup Day and sunshine … evidently folks (and critters) had other places to go.

After two days on the boat, it was a pleasure to walk along the scenic coast road.

We stopped in the General Store to look around. The friendly proprietor answered David's questions about local crabs and fishing. We've been lax about putting out a fish line or our crab net. Like all general stores, it carried a little bit of everything and nothing we particularly needed.

We thought we'd stop somewhere for coffee or lunch, but found no place open. The Oyster Shop offered all sorts of delightful local treats, but it was closed on weekends.

Having walked several miles by now and having found no sustenance at all, other than the granola bars Marcie packed which were long gone, we headed back to the dinghy and the boat.

A pleasant walk on a sunny day in a lovely place. Tomorrow we head to KI's big smoke … Kingscote.

15 Things to do in Adelaide

 

According to Lonely Planet, Adelaide, South Australia is one of top ten cities to visit in 2014 and wow, we're already here! The Huffington Post refers to Adelaide as “much to offer; too seldom visited”. It's kind of out of the way, I guess, and people usually think of Sydney or Melbourne when they think of Australian cities to visit, but there's plenty to do here and much of it is free.

We found the city and its suburbs delightful and though we never get to “see it all”, we can recommend the following.

1. Take a walking tour

Adelaide is a good walking city. There's street art, beautiful historic buildings interspersed with new high rises and lots of parks and statuary to take in. We use Lonely Planet Australia for ideas of what to see, where to go, and what not to miss. Once downtown, however, it's easy to stop at the friendly Visitor Info Centers for loads of free brochures, maps, train and bus scheds, etc. There's a free circulator bus that runs around the downtown CBD on the half hour … pick up a schedule and rest your dogs if you get tired of walking.

2. Mount Lofty

Mount Lofty is the highest point in the southern mountain range and offers great views of the city below. There's a restaurant, a gift shop and several walking trails which lead to or from Cleland Wildlife Park and the Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens. Admission is free. There is access by city bus, but it's not convenient, nor is it frequent. It's probably easier to get a lift, hire a car or take a tour.

3. Cleland Wildlife Park

We really enjoyed this wildlife park dedicated to native Australian animals. There are minimal enclosures and close up encounters with the animals is the norm, not the exception. Pet a kangaroo or a wallaby, get personal with an emu, hug a koala and let potoroos scamper between your feet. Birds, reptiles, Tasmanian devils, dingoes … all those critters you've heard about, but rarely see … and a few you've never even heard of. Admission is $20/pp. There's lots of room for picnicking and wandering.

4. South Australian Museum

The museum's collection of Aboriginal and South Pacific Islander artifacts is outstanding. Though there's much more, we thought this was the highlight. Admission is free.

5.  Enjoy a festival

South Australia is the Festival State and there always seems to be something going on. While we visited, we enjoyed Australia Day celebrations, the finish of the Santos Tour Down Under Bike Race and Chinese New Year. The big fests start in February and March and stretch out throughout the year … The Fringe, WOMAdelaide, Cabaret, Film Fest, International Guitar Fest.

6. Gallery of South Australia

A wonderful collection of Australian, Aboriginal and Asian art and so much more ... all in one beautiful building. Wander through gallery after spacious gallery. Cool off and get some culture at the same time. Admission is free.

7. Central Market

Just off Victoria Square in downtown Adelaide, this is the place where the locals go to buy fresh produce, cheese, meat, fish. You name it … they got it at the Central Market. It's fun just walking around, but there are plenty of opportunities for coffee, lunch and samples. All free … except what you buy, of course. Check hours … they're closed Sundays and Mondays.

8. Chinatown

Right next door to the Central Market on Moonta Street, walk through the paifang (entry gate) and you're in another world. Chinese groceries, lots of restaurants and shops. All free for the wandering.

9. Adelaide Botanic Gardens

Right downtown in Adelaide's parklands lie these historic botanic gardens. We especially enjoyed the lotus pond, the three glass houses and the Santos Museum of Economic Botany, but there's much, much more to see and appreciate depending on the time of year. Lots of native birds hang out here for obvious reasons. Listen for the iconic kookaburra's distinctive song. Free guided tours at the Visitor's Center. There's a snack bar for coffee and light meals, restrooms and a gift shop. Admission is free.

10. Tandanya

A small gallery of Aboriginal art, well-displayed and well worth the visit. Docents on hand to answer questions. Cultural shows on some days for a small fee. Gift shop has lots of Aboriginal art, designs and information. Admission is free.

11. Rundle Mall

Rundle Mall is just plain fun. Lined with every imaginable shop and restaurant, it's fun to stroll along this pedestrian mall, peek into the Arcades and shops, appreciate the mall artwork like the Rundle Pigs and the Mall's Balls, have a coffee or a pint, visit an opal mine and seek out discovery art along the way. Get the Discovery Tour download here or a free brochure at the Visitor's Center.

Link: http://rundlemall.com.au/about/rundle-mall-discovery-trail.shtml

12. Port Adelaide Self-Guided Walking Tour and Maritime Museum

Don't forget the “burbs”, there's lots to see there, too. We especially enjoyed walking around historic Port Adelaide admiring old bluestone buildings and visiting the South Australian Maritime Museum. $10 admission includes a trip to the top of the lighthouse. There are boat tours up the Port River to see the famous dolphins and on Sundays, a flea market and buskers add to the fun. Get the walking tour map at the Port Adelaide Visitor's Center.

13. Go to the beach

There are white sand beaches everywhere and trains and buses to take you. Try Semaphore or Glenelg for easy access to the beach and beachside resort activities. If you have a car, drive down to the Fleurieu Peninsula and try out Horseshoe Bay at Port Elliott.

14. Pub search

Granted, you can do this in any Australian city, but Adelaide has lots of historic pubs and old hotels for a pint or a jar and maybe even a floater. We found pub food to be pretty good and usually pretty reasonably priced. We tried The Austral, but there's a pub on nearly every street corner, so take your pick.

15. Taste some wine

South Australia is known for its wines. You can visit McLaren Vale or the Barossa Valley on a wine-tasting tour or take a trip there yourself where “Cellar Doors” usually offer free wine-tastings. Or stop by the National Wine Centre of Australia, right next door to the Botanic Garden downtown, for wine tastings ($2-3+per tasting) and lunch.

Getting around:

Train/bus travel is convenient and cheap and gets you most everywhere. If you're around for awhile, consider buying an Adelaide Metro Card which offers convenient and reduced rates on all local buses and trains.

Free bikes are available for the day on a first come/first serve basis at City Bikes and even include a helmet.

If you're heading north to Alice Springs or Darwin, the Ghan originates from Adelaide. You can also take the train to Perth across the Nullabor on the Indian Pacific or to Melbourne or Sydney on the Overland. Non-Australians can purchase an Explorer Pass that allows unlimited travel over specified periods of time at significantly discounted prices.

What to look for:

Try on a swagman hat or look for opals or eat a pie floater or a frog cake. Check out Uniquely South Australia for more ideas.

A little trivia:

the following movies were filmed all or in part in South Australia.

• Jaws (1975) - Southern Ocean off South Australia

•  The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (1994) - Coober Pedy, Moon Plain

•  Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome (1985) - Breakaways Reserve, Lunar Plains, Moon Plain, Coober Pedy

• Rabbit-Proof Fence aka Long Walk Home (2002) - Adelaide, Flinders Ranges, Lake Torrens, McLaren Vale, Nilpena Station, Onkaparinga River National Park & Recreation Park, Parachilna

•  Shine (1996) - Adelaide, North Adelaide,Springfield, Glenside, Henley Beach

• Stealth (2005) – Flinders Ranges

By the way, the locals prefer we keep their city a secret. They love visitors … but not too many.

So after reading this, mum's the word.