Last Signs of Australia

We've posted lots of signs and ads we've seen along the way and here's the last the of Aussie sign collection … at least for awhile. From Rottnest Island …

Geraldton barber's sidewalk sign gives fair warning.

What better icon for a porta-loo?

For sure, this ain't California.

No wash, no dry, no wake

Sign on a boat for sale in Two Rocks

Obviously, sailors moved ashore.

We weren't sure what they expected us to do. Take cover?

Do they carve grave monuments or are they really monumental masons?

We're definitely in Australia. They're keeping out the bogans!

A Little Gero Culture

Two Museums, a Gallery and Public Art

For a small city, Geraldton does well in the arts and culture department. The Western Australia Museum has a branch here that's only a couple blocks from the marina. We managed a visit between rain showers the other day. It's laid out well with three permanent galleries plus a visiting exhibition “DaVinci Machines”.

The first and largest area is devoted to local Aboriginal history and European settlements as well as local flora and fauna. It was interesting and informative. A second, dimly-lit gallery was dedicated to local shipwrecks, with special attention to the wreck of the Batavia, flagship of the Dutch East India Company's fleet, which was lost on Morning Reef in the Abrolhos in June 1629. Aspects of the shipwreck, subsequent mutiny, rescue and punishment of the crew are provided in detail along with salvaged items such as canons, silver coins, clay pipes and china fragments. Comparable to the Fremantle museum, a portico has been erected from the stones that the Batavia was carrying when she went on the reef.

The third permanent gallery was dedicated to the task of locating and identifying the war ship HMAS Sydney II, which was sunk in a deadly engagement with a German cruiser off the Western Australia coast in November 1941 with all 645 lives aboard lost. Both ships sunk and were not found until 2008.

A special exhibit entitled DaVinci's Machines was on display. “Created by the acclaimed Artisans of Florence in collaboration with the Niccolai Group, the exhibition consists of over 75 exhibits, reconstructed from the manuscripts (codices) and drawings of the 15th century Renaissance Man, Leonardo daVinci. He is described as a painter, sculptor, architect, musician, mathematician, engineer, inventor, anatomist, geologist, cartographer, botanist and writer. Wow! Some of his “machines” were placed strategically outside the museum and in the Visitor's Centre to entice folks to visit. It was an eye-opening exhibition. Never mind the Mona Lisa, this guy had detailed conceptual drawings for a helicopter, a flying machine, a self-propelled cart, a robotic knight, war machines … the list goes on.

The Geraldton Regional Art Gallery is housed in the former City Hall, a grand neo-classic style building. The gallery is small, but the artwork is well-spaced and aesthetically presented, reflecting off gleaming wood floors. The first floor is the city's collection which includes modern works, Aboriginal art and some older traditional landscapes as well as some textile and sculpture pieces.

The second floor was devoted to two special exhibitions … both dark. “There is unrest in the forest; there is trouble in the trees.” by Rebecca Dagnall is her photographic representation of the evil that exists in suburbia. It's satanic and evil symbols are presented in forested scenes.

An exhibition of Olga Cironis' “Into the Woods Alone”, expresses her feelings on the Greek Civil War (1946-1949) which she and her family lived through and endured. Many of her pieces incorporated human hair which I found disconcerting. Though I don't pretend to understand all of her artistic work, I was fascinated with her quote: “...it seems that the world overall remains focused on diluting and whitewashing cultural differences to create a manageable uniformity.”

On my way out, I chatted with the volunteers who had greeted me when I arrived. They pointed me in the direction of the ACDC (Arts and Culture Development Council). The tiny gallery was in the midst of getting ready for an exhibition, but had no problem with my browsing. Lo and behold, the basketworks of our pleasant Visitor Centre lady, Glenda Blyth, were on exhibit.

Also on display, works by Chris Bolton, mostly in textile and absolutely clever and wonderful.

I walked home along the foreshore and encountered several statues and pieces of public art. Two in particular close to the marina caught my eye. One was an “Batavian” by Tony Jones, a multi-faceted sculpture incorporating maritime images, a figurehead and symbols of the Dutch East India Company (VOC).

The other piece that piqued my interest was “Bill's Rock” by Bill Newbold, a huge granite rock fitted with a numbered dial which looked like a huge handle. It was a sun dial, but it required several mathematical adjustments to come up with the time … plus it required sun. I brought David back for a look. We never did figure out the time.

Tooling Around Town - Geraldton, Western Australia

There are several negatives associated with our refueling challenges and windlass issues, but there are a few positives, too. We hired a car to jerry jug fuel, got re-provisioned once again, filled the propane tank and still had a few kilometers left to ride around town. We're getting a chance to poke around Gero a bit while waiting for parts and we're finding it a pleasant little city. Even without the car, it's an easy town to stroll around and so far, there are enough sights and activities, apart from boat chores, to keep us amused.  

There's a memorial on the top of Mount Scott (read that “big hill”) that can be seen from the foreshore and we drove up to investigate. The HMAS Sydney II was sunk during “a mutually destructive engagement” with the German cruiser, Kormoran, off the coast of Western Australia in November 1941. All hands aboard the Sydney were lost and both ships sunk without a trace. Not until 2008, were both ships located. The memorial is a somber, poignant reminder of this tragedy. A granite wall lists the names of all men aboard. A dome comprised of 645 stainless steel seagulls, representing the 645 Australian lives lost, is stunning. A bronze statue entitled “Waiting Woman” stands in front of the monument facing towards the sea, waiting in vain for her menfolk to return.

The city was founded in 1848 when an explorer found lead ore. Iron ore and other metallic sands are still huge exports from the area along with livestock and agricultural products. There are several old buildings in town that have been converted into modern use. The Old Gaol (jail), for instance, built in 1856 is used as a crafts gallery, an historic museum and a venue for a gemstones display. Little shops operate out of the old jail cells.

We particularly liked the Freemason's Hotel. The name of the hotel is significant in that was an original meeting place for the local Masons. The original hotel was built on the lot adjacent in the 1870's … the lot acquired in exchange for a bottle of rum. The present Freemasons Hotel was built in 1895. It's still a hotel, pub and meeting place today.

Geraldton makes much of its proximity to the Abrolhos Islands and the tragedy which occurred there in 1629 when the Dutch East Indies ship “Batavia” was shipwrecked on the reefs on its maiden voyage en route to Jakarta. Beyond a huge shipwreck display at the Western Australian Museum, there are references to the Abrolhos and the Batavia throughout the city. A replica of the Dutch longboat used by Pelsaert et al to sail 1,500 nm from the wreck site to Jakarta is moored near the marina.

Though it rained throughout the weekend, we muddled through the puddles and wet to check out the Platform Market on Sunday morning held on the boarding platform at the old Geraldton Railway Station. We picked up some fresh produce and checked out the local crafts.

The colorful red and white striped Point Moore Lighthouse is the oldest surviving Commonwealth lighthouse in Western Australia and was also the first steel tower to be constructed on the Australia mainland. Having begun operation in 1878 and undergone updating and renovation along the way, it's still functioning today and can be seen for 23 nautical miles offshore.

We stumbled across the Pioneer Memorial Wall on our way to pick up the rental car. It's a lovely park with old pioneer gravestones rescued from weather and vandalism and tastefully restored.

Yes, yes … we are managing to get our chores done as well enjoying the sights of Geraldton. But even sailors need a break from the sea and boat tasks once in awhile despite being impatient to leave. That said, as soon as our new windlass arrives (yup, we had to break down and buy a whole new one), we'll have plenty to keep us occupied.