Namibian Food and Drink

Seeing the Joy of Cooking on Ian's bookshelf yesterday, reminded me that I haven't given much consideration to Namibian cuisine. Every country we've visited has its own particular foods and drinks and Namibia is no exception. Because of its colonial heritage, there's significant German and European influence here. For instance, the breads are good here in Luderitz, especially the brotchen that we buy fresh every day at the supermarket and the hearty dark, seeded breads. The strudels aren't bad either! bread counter at ok grocery luderitz namibia

Eisbein seems to be on every menu in every restaurant in Luderitz. This is a pickled ham hock, prepared in the German tradition, usually served with sauerkraut. I've avoided it. Sausages and wursts are common and folks still “braai” in the Afrikaans tradition.

eisbein in luderitz namibia

The local beers, both produced by NamBrew, are Windhoek and Tafel, brewed locally, but in the German tradition. They're quite good and we've loaded a case aboard for future consumption.

windhoek beer luderitz namibia

Tripe, also known as afval, is a traditional food here. The Afrikaans word afval translates to offal (or in my vocabulary ... awful). It's cow and sheep stomach and it's sold in most grocery stores. They make it more palatable (as if) by preparing it in a potjie (the traditional slow-cooking pot) and adding curry. Of course, my mom grew up on a farm and they ate pickled tripe and there are a zillion recipes for preparing tripe worldwide, so this isn't just an African thing. Then there's pluck which is a hardy combination of heart, lung, kidney and livers of animals prepared with potatoes and onions and served in a spicy sauce. No matter how well it's prepared and how lovely it's presented, I just can't get my tongue around it.

tripe in luderitz namibia

David has tried all sorts of game meat … kudu, springbok, oryx … and he compares them to the venison and elk that he's eaten in America.  They're served as steaks and in stews and ground up for meatballs, etc. It seems reasonable that native folks would eat what was plentiful and the “boks” (bucks) are plentiful here. There's also zebra, crocodile and ostrich available. Ix-nay on the zebra and croc (I'm sure they taste like chicken), but ostrich was actually pretty good.  Biltong, dried, salted meat like jerky, is eaten frequently here and is sold here in bulk or you can grab a piece out of a jar at the grocery check-out. It's available in all those “gamey” varieties.

meats of namibia

I saw “mahangu” in the flour section of the OK Grocery and wondered what it was. Mahangu is grown as a subsistence cereal crop here in Namibia and we'd know it as pearl millet. It's served at most meals to stretch the budget and fill the bellies. It can be cooked into a thick porridge and shaped into balls to be eaten by hand with stews. It can also be fermented and turned into an alcoholic drink called oshikundu, sold by local women on the streets up north.

mahangu in namibia

There's local asparagus, Luderitz oysters and crayfish, Kalahari truffles, and omajowa, the large fleshy mushrooms that appear for a brief period at the foot of termite hills in the north shortly after the rains in February. But, the pièce de résistance … a delightful, pop-in-your-mouth snack that's sure to please … mopane worms. Actually, they're the caterpillar phase of the Emperor moth (gonimbrasia belina) and not worms and they're found in mopane trees, hence the name. They're considered quite the delicacy and provide a major source of protein for some of the Namibian indigenous people.

mopane moth of namibie

They're prepared by squeezing out their green guts and boiling them in salt water. They can then be dried or prepared fresh … sauteed in oil with a little garlic, onion and tomato or some spicy peri-peri sauce maybe. The locals tend to eat the dried ones like peanuts … salty and crunchy. Yum. No … I did not try them. I think they'd be considered meat and, well, I don't eat meat. Yeah, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. And, no, this is not a recipe for our cookbook.

mopane worms a food of namibia

 

The Joy of Cooking...in Africa

I was doing laundry at Doris and Ian's house the other day. While waiting for the washer to finish (what a luxury!), I spied an old copy of The Joy of Cooking on a kitchen bookshelf. What young bride in America didn't have a copy of The Joy of Cooking at some point in her married career? I remember getting a copy as a gift on my first anniversary … a not-so-subtle hint, I think. Seeing it on a shelf in Africa, however, brought back many memories. I started thumbing through. doris' copy of joy of cooking

The Joy of Cooking was originally self-published by an entrepreneurial young widow, Irma Rombauer in 1931, in the midst of the Great Depression. The daughter of a German immigrant family, she sold copies of her recipe collection out of her apartment in St. Louis, until an expanded edition was published in 1936 by the Bobbs-Merrill Company. The rest is history. Irma's daughter worked with her in the compilation of new editions and the “Joy business” has now been handed down to Irma's grandkids and great-grandkids. What a legacy! This cookbook is considered one of the premier cookbooks in the USA and has been revised constantly to reflect changes in the times. No more Depression era cooking where shortages and substitutions were key considerations for any recipe.

stack of joys

Ian's copy was given to him by a Peace Corps worker and it was an early 1970s vintage. It was quite a trip back in time to read it as I waited. Some recipes were actually of interest like Mulligatawny soup, which I think I'll try in the near future, and chicken tetrazzini and an eggless, milkless spice cake which required beer! Calf brain fritters, and the preparation of raccoon, beaver tail, bear and woodchuck were not of interest … mostly because the fresh ingredients would not be available as we sailed (as if!). I was particularly enthralled by the illustration of skinning a squirrel. I'd never really gotten the knack of that and now know that I should have employed my foot to aid in the process. Duh!

use your foot to aid in cleaining a squirrel

There were helpful hints throughout like how to poach eggs without a mold or prepare a Parkin, a traditional cake for celebrating Guy Fawkes Day. I learned about new veggies like cardoons (in the thistle family like artichokes) and how to prepare fern shoots and fresh bracken. The instructions for preparing skirrets were very specific.

how to prepare skirret

I enjoyed reading about creating a birthday bread horse and Easter bunny biscuits. Shucks … David's birthday was in July and Easter's not for another seven or eight months. Well, maybe next year.

bread horse and bunny biscuits

The proper serving of beer and ale and other alcoholic beverages was interesting. Temperature, using the correct glasses and recipes for highballs and rickeys were all part of the discussion … which made me think grabbing a bottle of the local beer out of the bilge storage and handing it to someone was probably not the proper way to handle things. I need to give this some thought in the future.

serving beer, ale and drinks

Well, the laundry finished, I hung it out on the clothesline and returned to the kitchen table for a bit more Joy. Though there were no recipes for zebra, gemsbok or kudu (thank, goodness), there seems to be a place for Joy of Cooking in most every kitchen … even in Namibia.

The Joy of Cooking is still available on Amazon, but I doubt you'll get directions for squirrel skinning.

Buffets - A Las Vegas Institution

Buffets … you trundle up, grab a plate, stand in line and serve yourself. I don't much care for self-serve at a restaurant, much less a casino. Though this allows me to take whatever I want and the quantity I want, I hate serving myself. Why go out if I still have to serve myself? Okay, so I don't have to do the dishes, but still, part of dining out is the service, plus buffet food is usually mediocre. Except in Las Vegas, where the art of buffet is taken to new heights. There's even a documentary film about it ... BUFFET: All You Can Eat Las Vegas (2007).  

the buffet by jean louis forain

 

Pretty much every casino here offers a buffet of some kind. Some are definitely better than others, but most are usually pretty good. There are breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch buffets. Some specialize in seafood like the Rio and then there's the Bacchanal at Caesar's Palace that raises the bar with selection, quality and price. Mary and Becky have tried it for special occasions and raved about it. We couldn't come up with a special enough occasion while we were here to warrant the $50+tax/pp price tag. There's also a 24-hour buffet ticket ... Buffet of  Buffets … which is a pretty good deal if you like buffets on the Strip. It allows you unlimited eating binges at any of seven participating casino buffets for a 24-hour period which means if you timed it right and you could handle it, you could get at least four meals for $70/pp weekends, $50pp/weekdays.

 

at the buffet

 

Some tricks/tips for buffet dining I learned from Mary …

*The lines can be very, very long. Going early or late sometimes avoids the longer lines.

*Scope out the entire buffet before digging in. Why waste your appetite on macaroni and cheese when there's fresh shrimp or oysters down the way? Try something you've never tried before … be adventurous.

*Depending on the hotel policy, if you arrive just before the lunch ends, you can sometimes enjoy the dinner buffet, too which is usually considerably more. Same with breakfast and lunch. You can sometimes get buffet passes when you book your room. Shop around or ask before making your reservation.

*Alcohol is not included with your meal in most cases unless it's specified.

*Though you're serving yourself, you still need to tip the wait person who clears your table and keeps your drinks filled. $1-3/pp is usually the recommended amount.

*Take a fresh plate for each trip to the buffet line and don't eat in line (tres gauche). Doggie bags are frowned upon.

 

shrimp and lox

 

So, anyway, Mary had tickets for four free buffets at the Eastside Cannery Casino, not far from where she lives. We picked up Becky who hasn't been out for a meal since her hospitalization in mid-May and made tracks for the Cannery brunch buffet. I may not enjoy buffets all that much, but “free” is more than reasonable. The food was pretty mediocre, but the company was great and the complimentary champagne and orange juice (mimosas) weren't too bad either.

 

at the buffet

 

Okay, so where did the term “buffet”, meaning standing in line for a serve-yourself meal, originate. Most agree the concept derived from the Swedish smorgasbord, a fairly well-kept Swedish secret until it was introduced by the Swedes at the 1939 New York World's Fair. The term “buffet” is probably traced to the name the French give for the dining room sideboard that holds food.