Back to Nine of Cups - Chesapeake, VA

We're back! We left the dry heat of Las Vegas at 11 am (PDT) and arrived in Baltimore at 6:30 pm (EDT). After a 4-1/2 hour direct flight, a 3-hour time change and 2113.6 mi (3401.4 km), the humid heat of Baltimore smacked us in the face as soon as we walked down the jetway. We had reserved a one-way car rental to get us from Baltimore to Chesapeake, VA another 3-1/2 hours away where Cups was waiting patiently for us. Wimps that we are, we managed about an hour of road time before we opted for a picnic lunch from Safeway and a cool room for the night just south of Washington, DC.

We were back on the road by 8 am enjoying the scenery. Signs for crab and shrimp began appearing. Thick, green forests lined two-lane roads. There were antique shops galore. We passed through Windsor, Virginia … peanut capital of the world, they claim. Historical battle sites and markers were common and the Civil War iconic split-rail fences snaked along the roadside. And then there was the smell of salt and we were getting closer.

After a quick stop at Wal-Mart for some basic provisions and new pillows, we arrived at the Atlantic Yacht Basin. There was Nine of Cups gently bobbing in the water right where we left her. Inside, she was musty and had that closed-up smell, but there was no mildew nor mold to complain about. We opened all the hatches and ports, lugged all the duffels and gear aboard and began getting straightened away.

She was looking a bit forlorn with lots of pine needles and tree debris on her decks, but all in all, she was in fine shape. We washed the decks and got rid of a few new liveaboards … namely spider webs in the rigging and mud wasp nests in the cockpit. In no time at all, she was looking shipshape.

A day and night aboard and it was as if we'd never left … that is except for Hurricane Hermine which was quickly approaching. By the time she reached the Chesapeake, she'd lost some of her oomph and we only saw heavy rains and winds at about 30-40 mph.

There was significant surge and flooding along the coastal areas, but the Atlantic Yacht Basin is snug and secure and we experienced nothing beyond discovering a new hatch leak and a bit of rocking and rolling. We checked the lines and adjusted the fenders a few times, but otherwise neither we nor Cups were any worse for the wear.

So … now that we've weathered the hurricane, what's the plan? Well, David's brother, Paul, is hopefully heading our way in the next week. While awaiting his arrival, we have plenty of chores and repairs to catch up on. We're making plans for the few weeks we have on the Chesapeake, but mostly … it's just good to be home.

Happy Labor Day!

Lobstahs and Chowdah in Glos'tah

To celebrate the captain's birthday, he wanted lobster for lunch, so we decided to take a day trip to Gloucester (Yankees pronounce that Glos-tah). This entailed taking Lin to work so we could borrow her car and heading to Cape Ann on the North Shore of Boston just around rush hour. Rush hour in Boston is any time of day ... further complicated by summer tourist season. We left Lin about 8:30 am. We stopped en route only for a Dunkin Donuts coffee (America runs on Dunkin' … free coffee on your birthday) and a quick breakfast nosh. This 60 mile trek from East Walpole should have taken just over an hour. At 11am, we finally crossed the causeway leading into Gloucester. The captain drove and remained calm, patient and amiable as usual. Luckily, he is selectively hard of hearing in his right ear because the first mate groused about traffic all the way. Gloucester, by dint of its prime location on the coast, has always revolved around the maritime trades. Made famous by The Perfect Storm among other things, it's now gentrified somewhat for tourists, but still a working, commercial fishing port. We've visited many times, by land and sea, and thoroughly enjoy the whole Cape Ann area. But Gloucester, in particular, has a certain working man's allure and appeal to these sailors.

We'd done a little homework as to where we might find a good spot for lunch that we hadn't tried before and had narrowed it down to two or three places. We settled on a lobster shack kind of place on the water appropriately called the Blue Collar right in the downtown. We each ordered a bowl of New England clam chowder and split an order of twin boiled chicks (two “chicken” lobsters, i.e. lobsters weighing about 1 pound each). Blue Collar is a no-nonsense restaurant that offers only the basics: lobster, lobster rolls, chowder, peel and eat shrimp, raw oysters and corn on the cob. Everything a good Yankee needs for lunch. You can get your beer next door and walk it over. The atmosphere of the place is in its surroundings.

The day was perfect … warm and sunny with a light breeze as we sat under colorful umbrellas at rough wooden picnic tables. The salt in the air was heaven to our senses. We miss Nine of Cups at the moment and this was a palpable reminder of her. We watched as lobster boats worked their way to the wharf below, unloading their catch. The crew of Dog & I especially caught my attention. My, my, my … toting those lobster traps and crates definitely keeps some lobstermen in fine trim.

The schooner, Thomas E. Lannon, filled with tourists for a harbor cruise, slid out of her berth and past the historic Cape Pond Ice House.

Sea gulls soared overhead and cried as they passed. Some followed the lobster and fishing boats in and out of the harbor; others were content with tourist leftovers and discards ashore. When we finished, there was very little remaining for the hungry gulls.

We drove a bit further along the coast for awhile then headed inland towards Ipswich and Rowley. We figured we'd end the day in fine form by stopping at the 1940s Agawam Diner for pie. Just listening to the waitress recite the list of freshly baked pies had us mesmerized … apple, cherry, pecan, blueberry, coconut cream, lemon meringue, peach, chocolate cream, pumpkin, custard, blackberry. We'd died and gone to pie heaven.

Sated to capacity, we waddled back to the car, battled 2/-1/2 hours of North Shore traffic and arrived just a few minutes late to pick up Lin at work. (Oops!) It was David's birthday and the tardiness was forgiven. No, we didn't need to eat dinner … just in case you wondered … but we did slosh down a bit more wine before playing a rousing game of partners Pitch with Lin and Matt.

All in all … a fine way to celebrate another birth year past and another year beginning.

Happy 240th Birthday, America

Growing up in New England, I took for granted just how lovely a summer's morning can be in Massachusetts. It's comfortably cool and everything smells clean and fresh. Spider webs glisten with morning dew and it's just great to be alive and breathe in the new day. Being back at Lin's house conjures up wonderful childhood memories of summer mornings past. And this is not just any morning … it's the 4^th of July, the best holiday of the summertime in the USA.

As a kid, the 4^th was always an occasion for a family get-together and things haven't changed. We've invited friends and relatives to celebrate a traditional 4^th of July cookout with us at Lin's house. Hot dogs, hamburgers and BBQ chicken on the grill, potato salad, a big, juicy, sliced watermelon, cold beer, lemonade. The horseshoe pits are ready to go and the dart board has been set up. What a great way to remember America's Independence Day!

The fireworks started the night we arrived … just a small sampling of what's to come tonight. Some folks can't handle the anticipation and need to let off a little steam in advance. In theory, fireworks are illegal in Massachusetts, but it doesn't seem to deter anyone. There will be parades and fireworks galore throughout the country in remembrance of the “shot heard round the world”. We'll attend the local fireworks here in Walpole, cheer at the first blasts, ooooh and aaaah, clap our hands and yip with delight like little kids as the night sky explodes in dazzling color.

Happy 240^th Birthday, America! It's great to be home.