AQIS - Australian Quarantine

When we first arrived in Australia, we were instructed to tie up to a quarantine dock and the first person aboard was an AQIS official, Australia Quarantine and Inspection Service. “Service” is kind of a misnomer because it implies doing something for you that you ordered or wanted, when in actuality, we would have preferred NOT to have this service, though we understood the reasoning behind it.

The AQIS guy spent about an hour on the boat inspecting nooks and crannies, drawers and lockers, food and stored goods. He was looking for 1) sick crew 2) animals, bugs, rodents and other non-human liveaboards and 3) any indication of worms, termites or other critters eating our boat. Basically, anything unwanted in Australia. Domestic animals arriving on vessels have very strict rules that apply.

We were also required to show proof that we'd anti-fouled the boat bottom within the last six months. He was required to collect any fresh produce aboard (we had none left), took away our honey and mayo and few other odds and ends. We saved our eggs by hard boiling them just before arrival and promising to eat them post haste. He inspected our hiking boots to make sure they were clean and we weren't importing foreign soil. He emptied our vacuum cleaner. All went into a large black bag marked QUARANTINE which was headed to the incinerator.

For this, we paid $330 AUD, the largest amount we've ever paid to any foreign country for entry. We received a one-year Pratique which allowed us to sail in Australian waters until expiry. We received only one year because we were considered “high risk”. We asked “why high risk. We're a fiberglass boat?” and were told “95% of boats arriving are considered high risk.” That wasn't really an acceptable answer, but we didn't press it. Well, one year is up.

Actually it expired one month ago. We did not renew the Pratique, but not from lack of trying to be on time. We began calling AQIS Hobart in mid-October. We spoke to a pleasant woman who asked why we were calling and all sorts of pertinent questions and said she'd have an officer call back right away. No one called within a week and so we called again. Another pleasant woman answered, asked the same pertinent questions and said she'd have an officer call us back if there was a problem or something we had to do. No one called. We were off the hook or so we thought. Two days ago one of those pleasant women called back. She said she'd trying calling previously, but got no answer. That would be the “no-bars on the cell phone” reception (or lack thereof) in Kettering.

She asked exactly what it was we needed. We explained once again our situation and provided all the necessary and pertinent information. She said she'd have an officer call us right back. And this time, we did. We got a phone call from one of the officers. Yes, indeed, we needed another inspection. He was certainly pleasant enough, but there was no getting around the inspection requirement. When would we be in Hobart?

We have a problem with the logic in requiring another inspection after we've been here for a whole year. We figure after a year if there was something wrong with the boat or us, we would have infected everyone by now, but evidently AQIS does not agree with our logic. Even if we accepted the logic, we had a problem with another costly charge for another inspection. It really kills the budget...and the Christmas spirit. Ah, well. Our philosophy has always been, if you don't like the neighborhood (or the rules of the country), leave. We've chosen to stay and thus the onus is on us.

As soon as we arrived on the Hobart pier, both AQIS and Customs stopped by to “say hello”. Customs inspected our newly renewed paperwork and left without issue. AQIS scheduled our inspection. As it turns out, it was not much to worry about. He did, indeed, poke around the boat and verify that anti-fouling was done, but he was quite pleasant and efficient and pronounced us “healthy” and renewed our Pratique for another year. The impact on the budget was not nearly as painful as we feared since this was a renewal. The fines for not renewing the Pratique and being caught … more than we want to contemplate. Pays to play by the rules.

Finally in Hobart

Finally, we are in Hobart. We motored a whole mile down the Derwent, under the Tasman Bridge and arrived at the Elizabeth Street Pier mid-day. The port seems warm and welcoming. There was plenty of space for us and we tied up just forward of the Lady Nelson, a square-rigged brig replica of her 1798 namesake … quite a lovely neighbor to have. We had hoped to tie up at the Constitution Dock (ConDock), but our draft is too deep for the ~2m (6.5') depths in the tiny dock area. We're happy enough where we are though ... on the historic Hobart waterfront, smack dab in the middle of Tasmania's capital city. For $127.75AU/ week, it's quite the bargain for this primo location. The plan is to stay here through Boxing Day (26 December) and enjoy the downtown life and holiday festivities for a few weeks and we're really looking forward to it.

We have a long list of to-do's while we're here, some fun, some not so much, but as usual, we'll find time to get all the important things...fun and otherwise, done by the time we're ready to depart. David's list includes buying a new outboard engine (yikes!), finding a chandlery someone told him about and doing several boat chores he's says he's been putting off. (When has he had time to “put off” any boat chores??) I, on the other hand, have researched downtown walks including a self-guided historical walking tour, a pub tour (for research purposes only), a tour of the downtown parks and some community Christmas activities. I'd also like to return to the Botanical Gardens, get a haircut, purchase some new foam for the settee cushions and perhaps do some poking around in the local shops.

The downtown area is all decorated for the holidays. I couldn't help thinking of the lyrics from Silver Bells, “Strings of street lights, even stoplights blink a bright red and green” as we passed through the Elizabeth Street Mall. We managed a few errands our first day in town...post office, Mitre 10 (think Home Deport), Wooly's (supermarket), the Telstra shop.

Being on foot and walking through alleys and up crowded streets, peering in the shop windows as we pass by, all of this is part of the fun experience of being in a new city. No matter how many times we've visited a place by car, it always seems different when we arrive by boat. We think we're really going to like it here. Stay tuned as we tick off the to-do's in Hobart Town.

Sailing to Hobart Town

We anchored the night in the lovely Duckpond anchorage at Bruny Island, but saw no ducks. This anchorage is considered “bullet-proof” since it's so protected, but we didn't needed any protection this night. The water was flat and calm with nary enough wind to turn the wind generator blades even a little. The flags were limp. The temperature was mild and our first night back on the water was dreamlike. We woke to bright sunshine and a distinctly strong aroma of eucalyptus. I wish I could post a “smell bite”. It was a wake-you-up smell that permeated the air. Birds sang; water lapped gently at the hull. All in all, a pleasant way to be greeted by the day.

We hauled anchor, and headed to Hobart town, but not without a few hiccups. The handheld GPS in the cockpit has a corroded connector. It's a backup to the main GPS system, but we use it for keeping track of our nautical miles. It's on the fix-it list. The cockpit radio's LCD went out. We just had it checked out at Standard Horizon while we were back in the States and it was working then … but not now (sigh!). Put it on the list. As Marcie was raising the muddy anchor, the spray nozzle on the wash-down hose popped off and immediately found its way into the water. We were able to recoup it with the boat hook and our handy-dandy canvas bucket, but it needs to be fixed. The automatic bilge pump does not seem to be working properly.

Enough to-do's...on to the good stuff. It was a gorgeous day, but not enough wind to sail. No matter, we motored out of the Duckpond and into the D'Entrecasteaux Channel. I would call it a “blue” day. One of those days when the water and the air itself seem to reflect the blue, blue sky. The water was still except for our wake. The smell turned from eucalyptus to salty, sea air with a hint of fish as we passed close to the salmon farms.

Blue penguins floated in front of us, then dove shyly before affording us a chance for a photo. Sea lions languished in the sun, their flippers raised in a hello gesture as we motored past. Gulls, terns and cormorants dove for breakfast. We saw a whale … only long enough to identify it as a small whale and not a large dolphin. We reckon it was a southern right, but we really couldn't tell for sure.

We passed lighthouses, bluffs and sandstone cliffs. Mount Wellington was shrouded in clouds. We saw Ironstone Light in the near distance marking the entry to the Derwent River. Passing along Hobart's historic waterfront, the smell of the city overcame the smell of the sea. We weren't quite ready to tie up at Hobart yet. We were still enjoying the freedom of being on the water. We headed under the Tasman Bridge and though there was nearly 75' clearance to spare, it always looks like the mast is about to brush the bridge.

We anchored just after midday outside the mooring field in Cornelian Bay with views of the bridge on one side of us and views of the Queen's Domain and Botanical Gardens on the other. Several boats were moored in this protected area of the river. Colorful boat sheds line the shore.

The wind increased to 20 knots and kept the wind generator churning out power throughout the day, but conveniently calmed down by 7pm, allowing us a peaceful evening. We are indeed heading to Hobart Town, but not quite yet.