Joshua Slocum's Birthday

It's Joshua Slocum's birthday today. He'd be 169... a bit old for cruising maybe. He was the first person to sail around the world alone way back before the turn of the 20th century … before GPS, sat phones, internet and ATMs. We first read Sailing Alone Around the World before we ever went sailing. It was an evocative book, full of adventure, mishap and exciting places. Since then, our dog-eared copy has been read many times.

He left Gloucester, Massachusetts in his 36' (11M) gaff-rigged sloop oyster boat, Spray, in April 1895. He talked of Monhegan Light and the dense fog in Maine and Nova Scotia. We had witnessed this fog and the claustrophobic feeling you get when its denseness surrounds and nearly smothers you. He talked to the man in the moon. Though I consider the moon a “her”, it's the same moon and I do speak to her regularly when she startles me with her brilliant rising on clear nights during my watch.

He experienced williwaws and watched steamer ducks in the Patagonian canal anchorages, stopped at Sandy Point (now Punta Arenas, Chile) in the Straits of Magellan and enjoyed the excitement of Buenos Aires. As we traveled and stopped in the same places he'd been, we re-read the book, sometimes out loud to each other, and we'd marvel that so much was different, but so much was still the same.

We shared the same thrill seeing Table Mountain on approach to Cape Town, South Africa.

We, too, appreciated the lushness of St. Helena Island in the South Atlantic, though we made sure not to take any goats aboard … gifts or not. His goat ate all of his charts!

We were in sync with Slocum as we climbed the very same hill on Juan Fernandez Island that he had, trying to capture the spirit of Alexander Selkirk, the real Robinson Crusoe, who had climbed it every morning in hopes of seeing the ship that would rescue him.

Though he was an experienced sailor and seaman, Slocum had lots of dragons to slay and we appreciated his trials and tribulations, as well as his courage and inventiveness. Lesson learned: No matter how experienced you are, Neptune finds a way of providing challenges. Slocum's imaginary friend, the pilot of the “Pinta”, kept him company and provided counsel many times on this monumental voyage. Thankfully, I have David.

In 1900, he wrote Sailing Alone Around the World about his journey which became an international best-seller and is still considered a classic of travel literature. In November 1909, Slocum set sail for the West Indies on one of his usual winter voyages and was never heard from again.

Celebrate his birthday by reading his book, available from Amazon or as a free download from ManyBooks. It's a great read!

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

Northern Hemisphere Hoodie Hoo Day

Go outside at Noon and shout "Hoodie Hoo" to scare away the winter. Then check out this website for ways to overcome the winter doldrums. By the way, Southern Hemisphere Hoodie Hoo Day is August 22. I'll remind the down under folks then.

Portland, Victoria - en route and arrival

 

We had planned an early start, but you know how that goes. It was still dark at 0600 and quite chilly. Our bed was warm. We reasoned there was no rush since the weekly island supply ship was due that morning, usually arrived about 0630-0700, and took up a good portion of the harbor getting situated. We didn't want to meet her in the entry pass. So it was that we got up late, Searoad Mersey arrived late and we had a bit of late start. Schedules tend to elude us.

Portland is an overnight away. The weather forecast called for several days of favorable weather and for once, the forecast held true and, in fact, the icy south winds arrived earlier than scheduled. The exit through the pass was a bit exhilarating, reminiscent of some Polynesian atolls we visited. Waves were crashing on reefs and shoals all around us. Three sets of range markers helped us find the clear, narrow path through it all, to the calm on the other side. There's always a quick adrenaline rush as you commit to the channel and then there are a few minutes of tumultuous water and you're in the clear. Whew!

Dolphins stopped by to bid us adieu. Just a few though, nothing like on our arrival. They're better at welcomes than goodbyes. Then we were skirting along King's east coast, a few miles off, with beaches and heavy surf clearly visible. Far enough off to avoid the shipwrecks and the flies!

The wind was fresh and just off the port beam. We tooled along with jib alone at 7 kts. The southern swells seemed huge (5-6m / 15-20') as we surfed down into a trough and then up again. It was hard to stand watch since things appeared on the wave crests and then disappeared again as we sank into the troughs. The radar and AIS served us well identifying freighters and oil rigs along our path long before we could see them. The wind remained steady and cold through the night. We kept up our speed and track with little adjustment to the lonely jib which was earning its keep. No drama … the best kind of passage. Despite the late start, our arrival in Portland was earlier than expected. We covered the 189 nm, anchorage to anchorage, in ~30 hours. For us, a quick trip.

Three ships were anchored off Portland, another was stationary, waiting for its harbor pilot. A seal greeted us in just outside the port, one flipper up and a peeking head. We had a moment of anxiety when we started the engine to enter the breakwater and the low fuel alarm sounded. It seems with all of our jouncing about during the night, an air bubble crept into the fuel line requiring a quick burp, then all was well.

The harbor is situated behind a large, protective breakwater and turning the corner heading towards the yacht club was a pleasant respite from the rolling waters on the other side. Several ships were loading and unloading at the wharf. Huge piles of wood chips and stacks of timber lined the dock and the air smelled of fresh-cut wood.

We were surprised to see a large, unoccupied marina in the process of being built. Not only was it not shown on our charts, but it took up a good portion of the anchorage area in the northwest harbor. The inner harbor near the yacht club appeared full of local boats and the two free moorings we spotted were not suitable for Cups. We reconnoitered for nearly half an hour before finally deciding on a good spot. The hook set well in the mud. Sano y salvo, the Spanish say. Too tired for exploring today, but tomorrow maybe.

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

My Way Day

This is a day to have "your way" (not at Burger King!) Sounds a bit selfish to me, so share a little of the "my" and make it an "our". Make "our" favorite dinner or watch "our" favorite movie. More fun doing things together anyway.

Just Give Us a Good Night's Sleep

We're looking forward to a good night's sleep. We haven't had one since we left Triabunna several days ago. Our first night at sea was a tumultuous one off the east coast of Tassie and Flinders Island as you'll remember. Our second night, anchored in the little notch of Inner Sister Island was great until about 0230 when a swell found its way into the previously calm cove and rocked us gunwale to gunwale in awkward jerks and lurches for the rest of the night. By morning, with a change in the wind, we were happy to head to Deal Island, only 35 nm away.

We remembered our calm nights (and not so calm nights) at Deal Island. The forecast (need we say more?) was for calm weather from the S/SE and the anchorage at East Cove off Deal Island is perfect for that. We arrived to find five boats already anchored and two more coming in right behind us. It's a large enough bay and everyone had plenty of room. We could see the current churning in the Murray Passage behind us, but the anchorage was calm and peaceful. The only problem with the anchorage is its grassy bottom, sometimes tricky for holding. We set the anchor well, let out plenty of scope and headed to bed around 2230.

The wind was variable, coming from all directions alternating in short 20-25 gusts and then calms. We had swung around with unpredicted fresh westerlies and all boats were now on a lee shore. We checked our position before heading to bed, set an anchor alarm and felt relatively secure that we were holding in place. Ah, a full night's sleep ahead and we were definitely ready for it.

We heard a radio hail around 0200. Another boat in the anchorage had dragged and was nearly on the beach before being able to weigh its anchor and motor off. In the process, however, the anchor chain jammed, causing the windlass to pop a circuit breaker. In trying to reset the breaker, the switch broke leaving them with no windlass and an anchor hanging from the bow that could not be deployed.

David chatted with them on the radio and promised to help at first light. But now we were awake and aware that they were circling in the anchorage, round and round for the four long hours until daylight. We had a cup of tea, played a game of gin, chatted. We were only too aware of their predicament, having been in similar situations ourselves in the past. The nights are never so long as when you're waiting for the dawn. With each gust, we wondered if another boat would drag … maybe Cups?

Finally, morning came. A crew member picked up David in their dinghy. He had the problem sorted out and the windlass working and unjammed within an hour … at least until it could be properly repaired and the circuit breaker switch replaced. They happily anchored close by. We're invited for cocktails. That's how it is with cruisers.

Now...maybe tonight we'll get a full night's sleep? Tomorrow...Deal Island magic!

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

Homemade Soup Day

It's February, homemade soup will taste good tonight for dinner. Here's a good recipe.