Backstairs Passage to Adelaide, South Australia

 

Despite being seasick, we made good time with the southeast winds. Cups doesn't get sick, only the crew. We hoped to arrive at the Backstairs Passage, the narrow channel between Kangaroo Island and mainland Australia, in time for the flood tide. We only missed it by a few hours.

There were no ports to duck into to wait. Our options were to heave-to and wait 11 hours until the tide changed and arrive in Adelaide a day later than planned or brave the passage during the middle of the night on an ebb tide. A small dragon raised his head and breathed a little fire and smoke. Looking at the electronic charts, large breakers and a tide race showed up prominently. This could be a rough transit with 30 knot winds and big waves against a strong current. We reasoned, however, that the pass was wider than it originally looked (nearly 6 miles wide) and the tides were small this time of month. Also, we would be transiting at the beginning of the ebb tide when the current would not be at its strongest.

Despite the concerns, knowing I needed to get home, we were hell-bent to get to Adelaide as soon as possible. We decided to go for it. The timing was terrible. Not only would we be going through the passage at the wrong time, it would be on MY watch. Midnight came and I clambered up to the cockpit, tired and all bundled up in foul weather gear, watch cap and gloves. We weren't sleeping on off-watches because of the boat movement, but it was warm under the blankets below and definitely better than sitting topside. David made it clear to wake him if I wanted/needed him there with me when we entered the passage.

The anticipation heightened as I watched our progress closer and closer to the passage entrance. The half moon, previously occluded by clouds, now shone brightly and lit a path on the water in front of us. I kept expecting to see a 20' standing wave barring our way. The wind calmed down, as did the waves. I spotted a flashing light on our portside and counted its flashes to confirm it was the Cape Willoughby Light and then the St. Albans Cape Light came into view. The South Page Light flashed every 10 seconds to starboard. We were right where we needed to be.

I peered at the water before us, no big standing waves loomed. In fact, it looked fairly calm. We were gliding through at 6 knots. No roiling waters, no sea monsters. Though drama makes for better stories, I'm sorry (and relieved) to report, there was no drama at all. I woke David at 0300 for his usual watch. We were through the passage without incident.

The day dawned bright and beautiful as we headed north up the Gulf Saint Vincent towards Adelaide. We were berthed by 2pm. Despite yesterday's egg disaster, Neptune really was looking out for us.

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

National Chili Day & National Chocolate Covered Peanuts Day

It doesn't get much better than this, huh? Whether it's hot, mild, vegetarian, con carne, green, red, white...make a batch and enjoy. And then pop a few chocolate covered goober in your mouth for dessert.

Howl at the Moon

It's a full moon tonight.

Heading to Adelaide, South Australia

 

Our three day passage from Portland, Victoria to Adelaide, South Australia began at first light. We received a great send-off from the local gulls and terns who had evidently started partying in earnest, but very quietly, during the night without us.

Those loose-boweled, foulest of fowls, had covered the aft deck, bimini and dodger with plops of brown bird poop. Perhaps with all the Portland sawdust on deck, they'd mistaken it for a litter box? It is aptly referred to as the poop deck now.

No sooner were we out of Portland's breakwater than the dolphins appeared. Little guys, not much more than a meter long, were jumping, surfing the waves and watching the crew of Nine of Cups heave over the side rails. We'd left our sea legs behind the breakwater. We were both seasick for the day and miserable, despite the dolphins' efforts to cheer us up. “Oh look, David (heave, heave)...another dolphin.” “Yeah, they're (heave, heave) little guys, huh?” (Note to self: do a blog post on seasickness some time...but not now!)

As we got further offshore, golden-headed gannets, albatross and sooty shearwaters took over their watch as the guidance committee. They thankfully didn't feel the need to evacuate on our deck.

The swells were big and the ride continued to be rocky. Cooking on the first day included opening up a package of plain water crackers and even that seemed like a major effort. Day 2 and we were ready for something for breakfast...a hot meal. Scrambled eggs and toast seemed easy and bland enough, but remember Nine of Cups Rule #1...Nothing's ever easy on a boat … especially when it's rocking and lurching gunwale to gunwale.

I managed to get four eggs out of the fridge. They sit nicely on the grate of the gimballed stovetop. I cracked them one-handed (always one hand for the chore and one for the boat) and carefully ignored the shell bits that were in the bowl. I beat the eggs till frothy, but lighting the stove burner is a two-handed job. A lull in the boat movement and I was suckered into setting the bowl of eggs on the non-skid counter. In a nanosecond, the four beaten eggs had escaped the bowl and were all over the counter, oozing down the front of the drawers and puddling in yellow gelatinous pool of slime at and on my feet. I cursed, I yelled, I stomped my feet … then cleaned it all up and started over again. Neptune does not suffer theatrics.

More tomorrow...

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

World Sword Swallower's Day

The last Saturday of each February has been World Sword Swallower's Day. Sponsored by Ripley's Believe It or Not, this is the real thing. Sword swallowing at its best. Considering I'm a girl who still gags brushing her teeth, this is so NOT a hobby I'd want to pursue BUT that's just me. I don't recommend trying this at home, but give a look at the website...it's cutting edge.

Tootsie Rolls Birthday

You might try chewing then swallowing a Tootsie Roll while you're learning about sword swallowing.

Joshua Slocum's Birthday

It's Joshua Slocum's birthday today. He'd be 169... a bit old for cruising maybe. He was the first person to sail around the world alone way back before the turn of the 20th century … before GPS, sat phones, internet and ATMs. We first read Sailing Alone Around the World before we ever went sailing. It was an evocative book, full of adventure, mishap and exciting places. Since then, our dog-eared copy has been read many times.

He left Gloucester, Massachusetts in his 36' (11M) gaff-rigged sloop oyster boat, Spray, in April 1895. He talked of Monhegan Light and the dense fog in Maine and Nova Scotia. We had witnessed this fog and the claustrophobic feeling you get when its denseness surrounds and nearly smothers you. He talked to the man in the moon. Though I consider the moon a “her”, it's the same moon and I do speak to her regularly when she startles me with her brilliant rising on clear nights during my watch.

He experienced williwaws and watched steamer ducks in the Patagonian canal anchorages, stopped at Sandy Point (now Punta Arenas, Chile) in the Straits of Magellan and enjoyed the excitement of Buenos Aires. As we traveled and stopped in the same places he'd been, we re-read the book, sometimes out loud to each other, and we'd marvel that so much was different, but so much was still the same.

We shared the same thrill seeing Table Mountain on approach to Cape Town, South Africa.

We, too, appreciated the lushness of St. Helena Island in the South Atlantic, though we made sure not to take any goats aboard … gifts or not. His goat ate all of his charts!

We were in sync with Slocum as we climbed the very same hill on Juan Fernandez Island that he had, trying to capture the spirit of Alexander Selkirk, the real Robinson Crusoe, who had climbed it every morning in hopes of seeing the ship that would rescue him.

Though he was an experienced sailor and seaman, Slocum had lots of dragons to slay and we appreciated his trials and tribulations, as well as his courage and inventiveness. Lesson learned: No matter how experienced you are, Neptune finds a way of providing challenges. Slocum's imaginary friend, the pilot of the “Pinta”, kept him company and provided counsel many times on this monumental voyage. Thankfully, I have David.

In 1900, he wrote Sailing Alone Around the World about his journey which became an international best-seller and is still considered a classic of travel literature. In November 1909, Slocum set sail for the West Indies on one of his usual winter voyages and was never heard from again.

Celebrate his birthday by reading his book, available from Amazon or as a free download from ManyBooks. It's a great read!

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

Northern Hemisphere Hoodie Hoo Day

Go outside at Noon and shout "Hoodie Hoo" to scare away the winter. Then check out this website for ways to overcome the winter doldrums. By the way, Southern Hemisphere Hoodie Hoo Day is August 22. I'll remind the down under folks then.