Moose Hill Street - an iconic New England road

moose hill weathervane  

When we drive, we prefer to take back roads rather than jumping onto the highway. The highway can be faster, but only by a few minutes and there's no eye candy along the way. This crew always prefers off-the-beaten path, even when we're on land and traditional New England roads ... narrow, winding and tree-lined … definitely fit the bill.

 

curvy road

 

Moose Hill Street is the back road to my sister's house and my Mom now refers to it as “our favorite road” and she's right … it is. The road follows the contour of the land, up and down hills and around sharp corners. Foliage is thick and the trees arch over the road forming a lush green canopy. Stone walls, in various stages of disrepair, covered with poison ivy, line the roadside.

Largely because the Moose Hill Wildlife Sanctuary owns and has protected much of the land on either side of the road, there's been very limited building in the area. The few houses that exist along the road have been there for years and don't seem to have intruded on the road's pleasant nature.

 

moose hill farm

 

Moose Hill Farm, a lovely old place along the way, is also a protected area since being deeded to the town as part of a nature conservancy and historical preservation area in 2004. It operates in conjunction with the Sanctuary to protect several hundred acres that have been agriculturally active since the 1600's. A culturally significant local landscape, old stone walls, estate trees, the remnants of an orchard and a fine collection of old farm buildings trace an important part of local history.

 

moose hill deer

 

Reading more, we found that the farm alone supports at least nine functioning vernal pools, three rare plant species including the American chestnut tree as well as five rare wildlife species, mostly salamanders and turtles. We regularly see grazing deer, huge wild turkeys, squirrels, chipmunks and lots of birds, especially bright red cardinals, along this 5-mile stretch. We saw a coyote slinking across the road one dusky evening and several racoons, their eyes caught by the headlights, have peered out at us as we drove by. The wildlife seem to enjoy the road as much as we do.

We wondered how it got its name as there don't seem to be many moose in the area at present. Evidently Jethro Wood, a resident of Sharon in the mid-18th century, killed two moose with one shot on the hill now known as Moose Hill. Impressive shooting, Jethro!

 

moose hill scenic road

 

Moose Hill Street is actually cited as a Scenic Road and signed as such. Interestingly enough, the road used to meander for miles until major roads like US 1 and Route 95 cut it into pieces, leaving parts of it isolated from the rest.

Perhaps it's part of our philosophy and way of life developed over the past decade of sailing that makes us enjoy slow and relaxed versus a fast and get there mentality. Though we like arriving, the sights enjoyed while getting there still make each journey more memorable.

All Things Whaling - New Bedford Whaling Museum

weathervane  

With more than 750,000 pieces to its credit, the New Bedford Whaling Museum owns “the world's most comprehensive collection of art, artifacts and original documents of whaling history”. When visiting New Bedford, this was a not-to-be-missed stop on our itinerary.

The museum building, a whale weather vane mounted on its cupola, towers above most of the other buildings in the area.

 

whale skeletons

 

We entered a two-story main hall which displayed two full size whale skeletons. Climbing the circular staircase we entered into the world of whaling.

As we moved from room to room and gallery to gallery, we were mesmerized by the scope of the museum's collection and the impact these displays had on us. Whaling, on a limited scale, has been practiced for centuries by native people for subsistence purposes. As usual, once we “civilized” folks got the hang of it, we overdid it and the result was near devastating. The literature on whaling suggests that the “collapse of the industry was due, in part, to declining productivity, occasioned by the disappearance of the whales because of over-hunting (you think?) and the deterioration of the quality of labor.”

 

whale oil casks

 

Photos showed hundreds of barrels of casked whale oil being unloaded on the New Bedford docks, the results of a whaling season in which 10,000+ whales were killed … wholly for the profits of the oil they would render.

 

lagoda the largest ship model

 

The 89' (27m) half-size scale model of the whaling bark, Lagoda, was outstanding. We climbed aboard and tried to imagine heading to sea in her. We, however, imagined spotting and observing these graceful, gargantuan creatures, not trying to kill them.

 

sniffing whale oil

 

Well thought out displays illustrated everything from the uses of whale oil and the “trying out” process for rendering oil from blubber, to harpoons and harpooning techniques used for more effective and efficient kills.

We even sniffed vials of whale oil distinguishing the good from the bad.

 

scrimshaw and artifacts

 

An entire gallery was dedicated to scrimshaw and whalebone artifacts from around the world. The detail and craftsmanship of some of these pieces was superb.

 

artwork by an anonymous artist

 

Artwork ranged from paintings on canvas to sketches and watercolors by unnamed artists, probably sailors aboard the whale ships who captured on paper what they saw and experienced first hand.

Because of the whaling industry, New Bedford was and is a city of multi-nationalities. A balcony/gallery area one story above and surrounding the Lagoda was dedicated to the city's strong Azorean ties, as well as all the exotic places visited by the whaling ships and the mementos and souvenirs collected. We saw Tongan tapas, Fijian carvings and Polynesian fabric and they brought back warm and wonderful memories.

 

the gam by clifford ashley

 

A surprise and revelation while at the the museum was the fact that David's revered knot guru , Clifford W. Ashley (The Ashley Book of Knots) was also a renowned artist and, wouldn't you know it, born in New Bedford. We saw many of his paintings and, in fact, there is an entire room named after him.

He was in good company with a display on Joshua Slocum who refitted his boat, Spray, here in New Bedford before leaving for his Sailing Alone Around the World voyage in 1895.

 

melville quote

 

Herman Melville also set out from New Bedford on his whaling adventure aboard the “Acushnet” in 1841. Quotes from Moby-Dick and references to Melville abound in the museum.

We've visited lots of museums in many parts of the world. Some are small and excellent. Some are huge and not as good. No matter … they're always a highlight of our tours and provide lots of information, education and edification. The New Bedford Whaling Museum exceeded all our expectations. This is a world-class museum and left us thinking “WOW!”.

The City that Lit the World - New Bedford, Massachusetts

historic area view  

We may be away from Nine of Cups at the moment, but that doesn't prevent us from yearning to be near the water again. The best thing we could do is to drive to a city with a maritime history that's long and rich and take it all in. New Bedford isn't far away and made a great day trip. We could smell the salt air, walk along the working waterfront and watch the fishing boats, all the while immersing ourselves in history. What a great way to spend a sunny September day.

In the 1850s, more whaling voyages sailed from New Bedford than from all other world ports combined. From the US Colonial period till petroleum was discovered in the 1860s, high quality whale-oil, derived from whale blubber, lit most of the world. For a short, but prosperous 30 years, the whaling industry made New Bedford one of the richest cities in the world. We spent an entire day roaming and exploring.

Here's a taste of what we saw.

 

new bedford whaling nationlal historical park

 

The New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park

Established in 1996, this historical park is an open air museum of cobblestone streets and historic buildings dedicated to preserving and interpreting America's whaling and maritime heritage. The main Visitor's Center offered lots of brochures and maps as well as a taste of what to expect in “The Whaling City.”

 

widows walks

 

Nautical Mile Historic Walk

We ambled along the cobblestone streets where Frederick Douglass, Herman Melville and thousands of others walked a century and half ago. Stately buildings erected with the proceeds from the whaling industry were all around us. A well-laid out self-guided tour took us past Rodman Candleworks, the Double Bank, the Customs Building (still in use) and the Sundial Building among others, and then down to the harbor.

Interesting to note are the widow's walks on the tops of some of the old houses. Hopeful wives climbed to these high vantage points to catch a view of their husbands' ships returning safely from their voyages.

 

seamans bether ship's prow pulpit

 

Seaman's Bethel

In 1841, Herman Melville shipped out of New Bedford on the whaleship, Acushnet. His experiences led him to the writing of the novel, Moby Dick.

Melville mentioned the non-denominational Seaman's Bethel (chapel) in his novel and sitting in Melville's pew and soaking up the energy of thousands of seamen who had visited and attended services here in the past was spiritual. The ship's prow pulpit described by Melville was not part of the original décor, but was added in 1959 to placate tourists.

 

new bedford whaling museum

 

New Bedford Whaling Museum

This is a world-class maritime/whaling museum. It boasts the Lagoda, the world's largest whaleship model plus an entire room of ship's models.There are outstanding scrimshaw and decorative arts displays. The five full-size whale skeletons knock your socks off. One room is thankfully dedicated to preservation as well as telling the history of pursuit to near extinction. It's a top shelf museum and well worth a visit (and another blog post).

 

waterfront visitors center

 

Waterfront Visitor Center

One of America's leading fishing/scalloping fleets still runs out of New Bedford, though the fishing industry is definitely having its problems. The working waterfront and the Waterfront Visitor's Center offers a first hand look at the city's fishing industry and its historical importance.

 

a dead whale or a stove boat

 

A dead whale or a stove boat

This sculpture outside the Public Library says it all. Little boat (with harpoons) vs. big whale with an attitude. Many lives were lost in this dangerous occupation … dangerous for both the crews as well as the whales.

 

nautical antique shop

 

Nautical shops and antiques

Though we weren't in the market for any antiques or nautical items, the shop windows were enticing and drew us in just for a peek.

 

whaling city diner

 

All Things Whale

From weathervanes to diners, New Bedford is all about whales. The City that Lit the World is also known as the Whaling City and it lives up to its name.

 

big milk bottle

 

Big Milk Bottle

Let's not forget the bizarre … every city has something that just doesn't fit. Here's a Big Milk Bottle on Acushnet Avenue at G&S Pizza. What's up with that?