South Australia … Croweaters, Opals and Frog Pies

Home of the Croweaters, frog pies, pie floaters and bung fritz, South Australia boasts a diverse culture, outstanding wineries and several distinct characteristics unique to the state. It is home to some of the most arid areas of the country, yet its port cities are lush and vibrant. Kangaroo Island, the Nullarbor Plain, the Great Australian Bight and white pointers… all here to explore in South Australia.

Crown Marina, North Haven - 34S47.09 / 138E29.13 - 18'

2013 was not a good year for the Nine of Cups crew. Marcie left within days of our arrival in South Australia to return to the States to see her ailing 86-year-old mum. David remained with Cups until April. When it was determined that mum needed 24-hour at-home care, David returned to the USA and we remained in the States year’s end. David returned to Australia in mid-December and Marcie followed in January 2014. Cups needed lots of attention, but by the time Marcie arrived ‘home’, she was "shipshape and Bristol fashion" ... all decked out in yellow ribbons. Being together and aboard Nine of Cups was a great way to start 2014.

Though there were still boat chores to be done, we managed to fit in lots of  the local sights along with the work. Transportation was on foot and via train into Port Adelaide and the state's capital city, Adelaide. In Adelaide, we enjoyed the Rundle Mall. From left, the Mall's Balls, a giant cockroach and Marcie riding the Rundle Pigs.

Thanks to friends, Pauline & Denys, whom we'd met way back in Fiji, we had native-born Adelaidean guides who took us everywhere. Up to the top of Mount Lofty, to the local vineyards, Cleland Wildlife Reserve and a tour of the Fleurieu Peninsula. We had numerous dinners and outings with Pauline & Denys and sought to mix our work schedule with pleasure a few days each week.

We celebrated Australia Day and Chinese New Year and visited art galleries. We walked the streets of Port Adelaide, admiring the lighthouse, the old sandstone buildings and an outstanding collection of figureheads at the South Australia Maritime Museum

Before we leave Adelaide, we want to introduce you to a few unique South Australian items on the menu. More Uniquely South Australia? Click here.

East Cove (American River), Kangaroo Island - 35S47.74 / 137E48.84 - 23'

Midst all the fun and frivolity, we did manage to get Nine of Cups back into shape and we headed off to Kangaroo Island in early February. Unfortunately, our timing at KI wasn't the best. It was summer holidays and the KI Race was in full swing which meant for us no car rentals and no tours available. We anchored outside in East Cove outside American River and walked and walked and walked, taking in the quaintness of this little fishing village. We saw lots of birds, but no kangaroos on Kangaroo Island.

Kingscote, Kangaroo Island - 35S39.23 / 137E38.99 - 18'

Kangaroo Island's big smoke is Kingscote, the commercial and tourist center of the island. We walked along the foreshore and then followed an historical walk to the top of Flagstaff Hill for great views of the island and the Southern Ocean. We were feeling rushed to cross the Bight and pushed on all too soon.

Emu Bay -       35S35.42 / 137E31.50 - 25'
West Cape -   35S14.67 / 136E49.81 - 14'
Port Lincoln -  34S43.12 / 135E51.72 - 23'

We anchored a night on the north coast of KI at Emu Point and headed out early the next morning for West Cape, preparing for a brisk passage across the Lower Spencer Gulf to Port Lincoln. We passed Cape Donnington Light and were soon anchored in the calm protection of Boston Bay in Port Lincoln.

Port Lincoln is known especially for tuna fishing and cage diving with white pointers aka great white sharks. I nicked that pic... diving with sharks is definitely not our thing.

Memory Cove - 34S57.61 /135E59.51 - 25'
Avoid Bay -       34S39.93 / 135E20.26 - 33'
Sir Isaac Point - 34S25.92 / 135E12.71 - 20'
Waldegrave Is - 33S35.46 / 134E48.12 - 45'
Sceale Bay -      33S00.46 / 134E11.38 - 20'

We day-hopped along the east coast of the Eyre Peninsula, rounded the several capes and headed up the west coast bound for Streaky Bay. The weather cooperated and we had good winds, the company of dolphins and outstanding sunrises for nearly a week. No great white sharks made themselves known and we were just as glad.

Streaky Bay - 32S42.33 / 134E12.81 - 17'

Streaky Bay is one of those little ports at which you arrive and never really care if you leave. It's a charming little town with friendly people and pretty much everything you need in the way of basics ... laundromat, groceries, fuel,  ATM, restaurants and all within easy walking distance. The bay is well-protected and millpond calm and the channel is well-marked. We arrived to find several other cruisers already at anchor. As it happened, three boats had just crossed the Great Australian Bight and were heading east while we were heading west. There was lots to talk about and much information to share. We also found the blue swimmer crabs were running which added an extra level of gourmet pleasure.

One of Streaky Bay's claims to fame is a replica of the largest great white every caught by rod and reel ... 1500 kg/3,300 lbs ... back in 1990. We couldn't resist a peek inside the Streaky Bay Roadhouse to see this monster. Better here than when we're diving on the prop!

The town is small, neat and tidy and we enjoyed just walking around and exploring. We rarely eat out, but after great recommendations for Mocean (Motion), we decided to celebrate a belated Valentine's Day with a meal out. What a treat, what wonderful food and what a memorable evening.

Eight days in Streaky Bay and a weather window appeared for crossing the Great Australian Bight. We were ready for it. Come on along. It's a treacherous piece of water, notorious for storms and confused seas. So hang on tight and let’s go!