Thames Walk – Windsor to Maidenhead and on to Marlow
/Windsor to Maidenhead – 8.5 miles
After a whole week on the road, we’ve only managed 54.5 actual miles walked on the path, though we’ve walked a total of 79 miles. We are making forward progress however. As an aside, if we drove or took a train from downtown London to Kemble, it’s a matter of about 100 miles and 2 hours time. It’s all those curves and bends that the Thames takes as it snakes its way from source to sea and our path follows the Thames … no straight lines for us.
David is coping admirably with his cold which fully blossomed a day ago. We bought cold meds at the local Boots Pharmacy which has helped somewhat to alleviate the symptoms. Me? So far, so good on the cold front; blister is healing nicely and, with a Band-aid in place, not much of a problem.
We’re pretty much in the groove now. We can pack up and be on the road in minutes. We’re learning to speak British and getting the lay of the land. We had only booked a couple of hotel nights for the first couple of nights after our arrival. We were advised to book ahead especially for those destinations further along the path with limited options. We spent one whole evening checking out options and booking a combination of small hotels, pubs and Airbnb, so we’ve got a place to stay every night till the end of our visit now.
Looking back at Windsor Castle as we set out to Maidenhead
Yesterday was our longest day yet (14.75 miles) and we looked forward to an easier day as we set out from Windsor to Maidenhead … only 8 miles away. As we reluctantly walked away from Windsor, we chanced to look back, the castle sat regally on the hill in the hazy mist of morning.
We had to chuckle as we spotted the Windsor Duck coming ‘round the bend in the Thames.
An unexpected treasure along our path … The Church of St. Mary Magdalene
Our route led us through meadows and pastures. The track was grassy and hard-packed earth … old cart tracks and well-worn public footpaths. We unexpectedly came upon an old church with an open door and a bench out front which beckoned us to explore and rest. The Church of St. Mary Magdalene in the village of Boveney dates back to the 12th century.
According to the church’s website ‘A church has been on the site since before the Norman conquest, but the fabric of the present church dates from the 12th century. Windows and the tower were added in the 15th century. The church was built to serve the bargemen working on the River Thames.’
Remember, you can click a thumbnail below and enlarge the photo.
We wandered in through the open door. I have a problem getting my mind around old, old places such as this church built in the 1100s … nearly a millennium ago. The river is still here; the church has survived. Whose hands carried the stones and mixed the mortar for this church? Who walked on the same ground where I now stand 900 years ago? Who prayed here 500 years ago or attended a service or helped build the tower? The church commanded soft voices and respectful attention to its features and detail.
There were several sets of river locks in this section of the river and we watched as a group of boats maneuvered their way into the locks and tied up, waited as the water rose, then untied and motored out the other end as the lock gate opened. As soon as one group was out, boats traveling in the opposite direction slipped in.
Further up the path, the vegetation became so thick, we could barely tell we were next to the river, though we were only feet from the bank.
As we approached towns along the way, the riverbank would open up so we could appreciate the grand houses, mansions and estates along our path.
Oakley Court Resort … on the opposite bank
We walked a total of 8.5 miles by the time we reached the Grenfell Arms Pub in Maidenhead. We were content with a small meal and a cider at the pub and an evening of BBC news and internet before laundry, showers and bed.
Maidenhead to Marlow – 7 miles
We passed through several ‘kissing gates’ today. We first saw the reference to kissing gates in our Thames Path guide and were expecting something quite romantic. We kept waiting to pass through one so we could experience the romance. Turns out, we’d been passing through them quite regularly and never knew it. There’s nothing romantic about them in the least … although I did get a kiss going through one or two of them.
Passing through a kissing gate
We love the English gardens that we pass. They’re lush and green and brimming with flowers even as autumn approaches. The last of the summer roses clung on. Rose hips looked ripe for collecting … time for jam.
Last of the summer roses
We passed through pasture after pasture, deftly avoiding cow patties, sheep poop and horse apples in our path. Hay rolls, not so different from those we’d just seen during our Midwest trip in the States, were piled high in the fields.
A great fence in a lovely pasture
We stopped for tea at the Bel and the Dragon in Cookham … a 15th century coaching inn. They evidently had premium tea because we paid a whopping £6 for a pot for two. Highway robbery … except it was an awesome place to stop.
The Bel and the Dragon … a bit expensive, but an awesome pub.
Backpacks come off when tea is on.
Right around the corner was St. John the Baptist church, built in the 1840s. The church was closed to visitors, but we took the opportunity to wander through the churchside graveyard.
We walked 9 miles today, with 112 miles to go.
We’re off to Henley-on-Thames tomorrow and I have a sore throat… uh-oh!