Piacenza, Vercelli Rice Fields and Nature’s Best
/A Really Quick Tour of Piacenza
We really didn’t give Piacenza much time. It appears to be a lovely city and though we spent several days there, it was really more our base camp than a tourist destination. We had a lazy morning in Piacenza the day we were leaving for Vercelli. We walked to the nearby Piazza dei Cavalli, the old city’s main plaza, dominated by the 13th century ‘Gothic Palace’ Two large mounted horse statues by Tuscan sculptor Franceso Mochi commemorate the 15th century influential Farnese family.
We visited two churches in the city. First, the Duomo di Piacenza. We peeked inside, but as usual it was the architectural detail that caught our interest the most.
We love the details!
We also visited the Basilica of Sant’Antonio built c.1350.
Base Camp Vercelli
Our new base camp was Vercelli and David had strategically planned seven walks. We gave some serious thought to stopping in Milan on our way to Vercelli, but we talked ourselves out of it. We needed a day off. . Our plans were somewhat altered when we arrived in our new digs. It was recommended in the VF guide, close to the cathedral and the train station, but it was, in a word, a dump! The Hotel Salesia was for sale; it was dingy, drab and depressing. There were few amenities available, including cleaning and maintenance evidently. Everything was falling apart. We had planned to stay a week. Perhaps not. We searched for an alternative, found none and toughed it out.
Vercelli, however, the rice capital of not only Italy, but all of Europe, was quite a nice city.
Day 34 – Pavia to Garlasco
Walking along the Ticino River from Pavia
We took an early morning train to Pavia, but with a 1-1/2 hour ride, we got a late start on the trail. It was an absolutely awesome walking day. We’re now in Italy’s Lombardy region. The weather was clear and in the 70s. Walking along the irrigation canals that service the rice fields, we were close to nature today. There were hundreds of frogs in the canals and the croakers provided ongoing background noise for the walk.
Lots of croakers provided early morning water music
Butterflies, dragonflies and damselfies flitted about. Rabbits were in the drier parts of the fields. Herons, egrets and sacred ibis waded in the wet fields looking for a snack. The paths were nearly dry and the grass was high.
We weren’t the only ones watching the frogs.
The air was humid and the smells were earthy. We met 5 pilgrims along the path, but no one stopped to chat. .We stopped briefly in Garlasco to check out a different hotel, made a reservation and returned to the ‘dump’ for one more night. We planned to drop off our packs before our walk the next morning.
Day 34 – Pavia to Garlasco
17.92 miles walked / 41,668 steps
Leg distance: 15.3 miles / 800 miles to Canterbury
Day 35 – Garlasco to Nicorvo
Rice fields dominate the flat landscape here.
Flat rice fields again, a hot and humid day and lots more frog croaking to accompany our footfalls on the path. We were up early to catch the first train to Garlasco. The Hotel I Diamanti was lovely, but ¾ mile from the train station. We walked the ¾ miles, dropped off Marcie’s pack and the extra gear, then walked back to the path.
In the little town of Tramello, we encountered Carlo, a local bar owner who asked if we needed a ‘timbro’ for our pilgrim passports and, of course, we did. He opened up his Bar di Pellegrini (Pilgrim’s Bar) and provided us not only with a stamp, but a VF certificate from the local church and a pin. He then dutifully walked us back to the VF path so we wouldn’t get lost. Not sure if the other 5 pilgrims we met today received the same treatment, but we felt pretty lucky.
We passed several churches today, but 12th century Santa Maria del Campo , was the most interesting.
This was a long, long day, but we’re picking up a day’s credit. We walked 1-1/2 VF legs todays and will do the same tomorrow. Without packs, we really can walk much further.
The Nicorvo train station was deserted and not very nice … but the train stopped for us.
Day 35 – Garlasco to Nicorvo
20.12 miles walked / 46,782 steps
Leg distance: 17.0 miles / 783 miles to Canterbury
Day 36 – Nicorvo to Vercelli
Walking along the irrigation canals and rice fields
Another early train, back to Nicorvo where we left off. The flat terrain and rice fields continue as does the heat and humidity. It was another nature day. Lots and lots of wading birds. We watched as one heron caught a snake. Turnabout’s fair play since we’re pretty sure the snakes are eating the frogs.
How else would you see a sight like this if you weren’t walking?
We encountered 10 pilgrims on the path today.
Day 36 – Nicorvo to Vercelli
16.5 miles walked / 38,376 steps
Leg distance: 15.0 miles / 768 miles to Canterbury
Day 37 – Vercelli to Santhiá
One of many oases for travelers along the Via Francigena
We actually did this walk backwards. It was another day for birds. Being close to the flooded rice fields makes the walk hot and humid, but quite interesting in the bird department. We really haven’t seen many birds along our route in Italy … crows, sparrows, doves and cuckoos that go on cuckoo-ing ad infinitum until they about drive you cuckoo.
Today, there were sacred ibis, egrets, northern lapwings with their crazy do’s, herons and stilts that we could identify. The sacred ibis (ibis sacro in Italian) were considered sacred to the Egyptians, but are now rare in Egypt, but an invasive species in Europe.
Hotel Vittoria in Santhiá … what a gem!
We moved our base camp to the Hotel Vittoria in Santhiá , a gem of a place, across the street from the train station, with pleasant rooms and a nice restaurant.
A note that it took it all day and 17 miles to walk from Vercelli to Santhi, but by train, it was a 10-minute ride.
Day 37 – Vercelli to Santhiá
17.95 miles walked / 41,755 steps
Leg distance: 16.8 miles / 751 miles to Canterbury
Day 38 – Santhiá to Roppolo
Our first glimpse of the snow-covered Alps in the far distance
For a change, there are two shorter walks over moderately easy, flat terrain and we decided it was about time to give Plan A a try once again and let me carry my pack for the first time in seven weeks. It was a bit of a challenge at first, but it worked out just fine.
San Rocco, an unusual round church
Beware of the dogs! We counted at least a dozen dachsunds yipping, growling and barking at us as we passed. It was hard to take them seriously, but of course, we were on the other side of the fence.
We walked mostly on farm roads and shady forest paths and ended up staying in Roppolo at a B&B, La Casa del Movimento Lento (House of Slow Movement), a very VF oriented place. We were able to do laundry and then just relax in their lovely backyard garden.
Not much on the outside, but on the inside La Casa del Movimento Lento was lovely.
Day 38 – Santhiá to Roppolo – Plan A
10.81 miles walked / 25,150 steps
Leg distance: 10.0 miles / 741 miles to Canterbury
Day 39 – Roppolo to Ivrea
On the path to Ivrea
Since Plan A seemed to be working, we continued on to Ivrea walking on mostly secondary, lightly trafficked roads. We only caught a glimpse of Lago Viverone, but we knew we were near by the number of mosquitoes we swatted.
The climate of the Piedmont region in the foothills of the Alps provide a perfect area for vineyards.
Terracing takes advantage of every bit of arable land in this hilly region.
We passed the scenic ruins of Chiesa di San Pietro, an 11th century Romanesque chapel. As we ventured closer and inside, we were able to make out some of the original fresco work on the inner walls.
Gesiun - the ruins of 11th century Romanesque chapel, Chiesa San Pietro
Day 39 – Rippolo to Ivrea– Plan A
13.54 miles walked / 31,484 steps
Leg distance: 14.0 miles / 727 miles to Canterbury
What’s next? We’ll move our base camp to Ivrea for a few days. Why not come with us? You’ll enjoy the walk and your feet won’t be any worse for the wear.