Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes – Kellogg-Enaville-Bull Run Lake
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Day 3 - Kellogg-Enaville-Pine Meadow
It has rained during the night every night we have been camped at Bumblebee. Angela, one of the camp hosts, referred to this areas as a temperate rain forest… perhaps it is. We’ve spent 15 minutes each morning ‘chamoising’ off Blue to keep his metallic blue complexion looking good and then wiping down the bikes before loading them. This morning was no exception. Today, however, it didn’t rain during the night (usually between 3-4AM like Camelot), but rather around 0630, so there was a bit of a delay in our morning routine.
In case there was any question about the local industry.
It was still drizzling when we arrived at the Enaville Trailhead and though we enjoy biking, we’re no gluttons for punishment. Riding in the rain is not pleasant. Instead, we headed to the local Walmart in Smelterville to top up our fresh water supply and get supplies. You’ll remember that the campground water is ‘potable’, according to camp sources, but not drinkable, according to us. We stopped at the local Mickey D’s in Kellogg for hot coffee and mostly to use their internet to post David’s next blog. The online weather report said it would be much cooler today (80F), less humid and it would clear by 11AM.
As promised, clearing occurred about 10:30. We parked at the Enaville Trailhead (only 4-5 miles from the campground) and rode back to the Silver Mountain Trailhead, then returned and rode another 4 miles to Pine Meadow, a tiny rest stop.
Riding over the old train trestles
Today’s route took us along the North Fork of the Coeur d’Alene River over trestles and through thick evergreen forest. I saw a buck deer as I sped past. We surprised each other and he hightailed it back into the dense forest. Mileage complete, we returned to Blue… 20 miles ridden, 10 miles of progress on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes.
Not much left in the Burke Canyon area except mine ruins and tailings.
For our afternoon sightseeing expedition, we returned to Wallace once more. There’s so much to see in this area. First, David wanted to explore Burke Canyon, a small mining district north of Wallace with some interesting history. We passed through tiny towns with names like Black Bear, Gem and Yellow Dog. Mostly we saw mine tailings and mine ruins.
If Burke Canyon was first on the list of things to see, second, and probably most important in my estimation, I wanted to try huckleberry ice cream at the quirky Red Light Garage.
The quirky Red Light Garage promised the best huckleberry shakes… alas, it was closed!
Burke Canyon was okay and David will regale you with details of mines and associated diasters, but as soon as we returned to Wallace, I voted to bee-line it to the Red Light… but alas, it was closed! I was devastated until we found an ice cream parlor/souvenir shop/silver mine tour company headquarters close by that had lots of good ice cream flavors including huckleberry. Ecstasy! Lord, I do love ice cream!
It was late afternoon as we headed back to our Bumblebee campsite. The temperature was mid-70s with a slight breeze. Our laundered clothes had dried and the evening’s wine was chilled. It was a very good day… and I had my huckleberry ice cream. Life is good.
Day 4 – Pine Meadow- Bull Run Lake
We’re finding that 20 miles is a sweet spot for riding and, as you know, we’re never in a hurry. David estimated that we have only 26 miles left to ride of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. Today we rode from the Pine Meadow rest stop to Bull Run Lake… another 20 mile day.
The pond lilies were past bloom, but wild sweet pea added some vivid color to the trail side.
We didn’t sleep well for some reason and since we were awake, we were up and heading to the trailhead at Bull Run by 0700. It was cool and overcast at 0730 as we hit the trail. If there are any grades here, they are unnoticeable. It seemed we rode on level ground for all 10 miles except tiny grades over trestles and bridges. It was an easy, pleasant day along the beautiful blue-green waters of the Coeur d’Alene River. A heron gronked and a kingfisher screeched as we rode past. We were too late for the pond lilies bloom although bright pink wild sweet peas along the trail’s edge provided some vivid color.
Mission of the Sacred Heart aka Cataldo Mission at Old Mission State Park
Since we’d started so early, we were back at Blue by 10:30, leaving the rest of the day for whatever. The Jesuit Mission at Cataldo is the oldest surviving building in Idaho and warranted a look. We headed for Old Mission State Park. The $5 admission fee got us into the park and the mission church. Constructed by the Coeur d’Alene people under the supervision of Jesuit missionaries c.1850-1853, the beautiful Mission of the Sacred Heart, is now a national historic landmark and the focal point of the state park.
The restored Cataldo Mission is Idaho’s oldest building (c.1850) and is now a National Historic Landmark.
We entered the restored church and marveled at its beauty and simplicity. We wandered the grounds, explored the museum and spent time in the mission cemetery. We wondered about the missionaries who came here, about the Native People who built their mission church and about those who were buried in the cemetery… some with lasting markers, but most with anonymity… just mounds and depressions in the earth.
It was hot and humid back at camp. Instead of beer, we chose a cold sugar-free Gatorade. Pitiful, but true. We needed salty chips, a cold, non-alcoholic beverage and a nap and we got all three.
Join us next time as we finish up our ride on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. Come with us for the final miles on the trail, a hike to the Pulaski Tunnel and some wandering through old miner’s cemeteries. You’ll enjoy it… we guarantee it or your money back!