Riding Nebraska’s Cowboy Trail - Days 3-4
/Day 3 - Neligh to Ewing
After a fine night’s sleep, we woke refreshed and ready to hit the trail anew... after coffee. We walked back to Cubby’s, got a couple of coffees and muffins to go and headed back to the DeLuxe to pack up. Today’s ride was to be a bit longer at 20 miles en route to Ewing with a planned stop about 10 miles out at Clearwater
Another sunny, clear sky day, but a bit cooler. The trail was much better, the wind had lessened to a comfortable, cooling breeze and life was good as we rode. Rabbits and squirrels scampered across and up the path as we pedaled by. A rainbow of wildflowers lined the trail... purple spiderwort, pink thistle, still-to-blossom milkweed, yellow-eyed daisies and lavender shell leaf penstemon, to name a few.
The path is narrow, so we tend to ride in single file, thus, not much chatting which I kind of miss. Once in awhile, we’ll shout at each other when there’s something of interest, but for the most part, trail riding is a solitary business. We are both immersed in our own separate worlds.
It was an interesting day for meeting people. We stopped at a gas station/mini mart for another coffee and a pee break. Across the way was the Clearwater Market and we figured we might buy lunch for later on. The store was quite empty of people except for the cashier, Kathy, a friendly local woman. We chatted a bit. She was born and raised in the area and lived on a farm. They raised their kids here and their kids stayed around too. This is a family-rich area in the breadbasket of the America. People are friendly, open and trusting.
There were lots of detours today from the trail onto the highway. We learned later that the trail and several bridges had been washed away in September 2019’s devastating rainstorms and floods and had never been repaired. The detour signs were mostly well-marked to get off the trail, but we never saw signs advising when we could get back on. We’d ride on the highway for a mile or so, then get back on the trail and hope the trail was intact.
Detour signs were mostly pretty evident and we’d divert to US-20 for awhile.
On occasion, there were no detour signs, but it was still pretty evident that diverting to the highway was the prudent thing to do.
I’d made reservations at the small, local Two Rivers Motel for the night. Vonnie, the friendly owner, was out of town, but she arranged everything in advance of our arrival. Our room would be ready early, the door would be unlocked and she’d leave her garage door opener in the room so we could store our bikes there. The room was country-lovely and comfy with lots of nice little amenities like coffee, USB plugs, fridge and microwave and extra plush pillows that we really didn’t anticipate, but thoroughly enjoyed.
The Two Rivers Motel was an unexpected pleasure.
About a 1/2 mile down the road in downtown Ewing, we found DW”s Pub & Grill for a late lunch. The place was busy with local farmers and ranchers who all nodded, smiled and said hello when they made eye contact. On our way out, we met David and Joan, both born and bred in the area. Our extended 20 minute conversation covered lots of topics. Where we’re we from and what we’re we doing? Their backgrounds (ran the local newspaper in Neligh for several years), history of the town and an answer to the nagging question of what animal dug all the holes in the middle of the trail. Badgers digging up anthills!! It would turn out that our chance encounters with people we met along the trail would be the best part of our trip. The bicycling was great; riding through the Nebraska countryside was lovely, but the meet-ups and chats were awesome.
Heading into DW’s Pub and Grill
We did learn one other interesting fact about Ewing. The Savidge Brothers hailed from here and were early pioneers in aviation and contemporaries of the Wright Brothers. We saw several tributes to them throughout the little town.
Trail miles: 20 Actual miles: 20.5
Day 4 - Ewing to O’Neill
We rose early in anticipation of riding before the day heated up too much. On our way out of town we stopped at a convenience store for a coffee to go. The sweet, alluring aroma of baking cinnamon rolls hit us as soon as we walked in the door. Hot out of the oven, we succumbed to the temptation and bought one, but tucked it away in a pannier, pledging to wait until our 10-mile break before devouring it. What an incentive for pedaling fast, complaining little, and getting to the little town park picnic area in Inman. It was delish!
Yumbo, Columbo…. this was worth waiting for.
Thanks to our new Ewing friend, we now know what critter digs these holes in the middle of the trail… badgers going after Ants!
David noticed at the beginning of the trail in Norfolk that all the bridges were numbered. The first one we crossed was #143. We noted today that the bridge we crossed was #289. Lots of little bridges along this railway line as well as some longer ones. We didn’t cross them all, however, since we detoured on occasion where bridges had been washed away. We also noted that many of the old railroad markers were still in place along our route.
We cross several bridges, big and small each day.
Old railroad markers and signs still exist along the route.
Interestingly, the Cowboy Trail is not only the nation’s longest rail-to-trail conversion, it’s also Nebraska’s first state recreational trail. When the Cowboy Trail is finally completed it will stretch 321 miles across Nebraska.
The only railroad depot still in existence along this trail is the one in O’neill and it’s been totally restored.
O’Neill is called the ‘Irish Capital of Nebraska’. Founded by General John O’Neill as an Irish colony in 1882, today it boasts a population of ~3,600.
Allegedly, the world’s largest shamrock is in residence here, though we didn’t see it. There is also a Blarney Stone in town and shamrocks are in evidence just about everywhere… including painted on the sidewalks.
O’Neill’s Blarney Stone
We opted to stay at the historic Golden Hotel in the downtown area. Built 1912-1913, it provided accommodation not only for railroad workers and travelers as well as cattle men, but it was a Godsend for homesteaders who needed to build within a certain time limit to stake legitimate claim to their land. While their homes were being built, many stayed in the hotel. A little trivia here… the hotel is also noted for Al Capone’s visit in the 1920s when he was visiting Nebraska relatives.
We learned there was an old-fashioned carnival in town and walked down to Carney Park to have a look. We haven’t been to a carnival in years. Though we didn’t particularly want to indulge in the epicurean delights offered nor sample the midway rides, we did enjoy watching the kids, especially the young ones, all eagerly waiting in line for rides or amazed at the lights and music.
Enough excitement for one night. We grabbed a quick dinner at the local Mexican restaurant and retired to our room, all prepared for tomorrow’s ride.
Trail miles: 20 Actual miles: 22.75