Big Bend National Park - 1

Our ambitious plan to rise early and take one of the many hikes at Davis Mountains State Park vanished when we woke at 0645 and it was pitch black and cold (low 40s). We rolled over, dozed off for an hour and the sun was just starting to peek over the mountains. We settled for a short walk on the Montezuma Quail Trail, very steep, very rocky and nary a quail in sight. It did, however, provide a good view of the campground below and we could barely see Blanche under the big cottonwood tree.

Back on the road to Big Bend, we stopped in Alpine, Texas for a pit stop and once again made use of McD’s internet to post a blog and make a pit stop. Gas here was $4.19/gallon and we filled up. Funny, how that price seems a bargain after paying Las Vegas prices of nearly $5/gallon. All things are relative.  With a range of 400 miles, we figured our full tank would see us through our visit to Big Bend and our return to civilization.

It’s another 30 miles from Alpine to Marathon, Texas and then another 40 miles to the entrance gate of Big Bend National Park. Admission is $30/vehicle for a week’s visit, but with a senior pass, it’s free. From the gate, it’s yet another 30 miles to the Panther Junction Visitor Center and another 20 miles beyond that to the Rio Grande Village Campground. In other words, it’s really a very long ways to anywhere. But the road stretching out before us was magnificent.

Big Bend refers to the great southwest Texas U-turn that the Rio Grande makes here. The Rio Grande River, the Chisos Mountains and the Chihuahuan Desert all contribute to the great diversity of flora and fauna in the area, including several endemic species. The park was established in 1935 and currently encompasses an area of 1252 sq miles. To put that into perspective, Big Bend is larger than the state of Rhode Island (1214 sq mi). As they say, “Everything’s bigger in Texas!”

We made our way to our campsite. A large mesquite tree provided shade. We set up camp (which now only includes camp chairs, a camp table and our little 2-burner propane stove instead of a tent and cots and sleeping bags and… so glad to be back in a van!) and then walked a half mile or so over to the Rio Grande Village camp store to check it out. We only had to provision for 6 days, but our mindset had been a 3-month trans-ocean voyage. Needless to say, we had plenty of food on hand before we arrived. Still, we wanted to see what was on offer. Showers were $2/ 5-minutes; laundry $1.50/wash and 25¢/xx mins; gas $4.47/gal… still cheaper than Las Vegas! Food, beer, souvenirs and miscellaneous sundries were all available, but the prices were, as expected, pretty steep.

It was late in the day when we were settled in and decided on the short Rio Grande Nature Trail for a sunset walk. As much as I hate the dark early morning hours, I certainly appreciate the long sunlit evenings. We remembered this walk from our last visit to the park. We walked across boardwalk over tall grass and marshes. Bull frogs were croaking and a green heron was patiently waiting on the branch of a submerged tree limb for a dinner opportunity.

We climbed up a rocky path to the top of an overlook for 360º vista of the park. Sunset viewers had already snagged their spots for best views of the sunset, but sunset was still another half hour away. Impatient, we clambered back down and still had enough light to make our way along the sandy River Spur Trail and dipped our toes in the Rio Grande. A Mexican couple was on the opposite side and we waved to each other a rider was slowly making his way across the rocky hillside. The river level is low and walking across to Mexico or vice versa, would be easy. There are no border walls here.

We walked back to camp, hand in hand. It was pleasant and comfortably warm. We chatted and made plans for our upcoming days in the park. We talked about the next round of Blanche upfits. We retired into Blanche, played a game of cards, read a little and then lights out. 

We woke early. David was sure he heard a bear in the campground, but looking out the windows, we saw nothing but darkness. At least we got an early start to our day for a change. We had chosen the Hot Springs Canyon Trail (~6 miles RT). We’d walked this trail the last time we visited and especially enjoyed the views. The trail is steep ups and downs and our walk to the Hot Springs was a brisk pace with our morning energy and a light breeze to keep us cool. We stopped to take in spectacular vistas and marvel at the beauty of the place and the mighty Rio Grande snaking its way through the canyons below us.

At the Springs, there were lots of folks who had driven in from the other end and were either soaking in the hot springs or wading in the cool river water. We sat under the shade of a tree for a few minutes and began the return trip. My spirited morning pace became a slow drag under a sweltering late morning sun. The inclines were steeper and the trail was longer. Later in the day we learned that the trail had subsequently been closed when a woman had to be evacuated for sunstroke.

There were lots of desert flowers in bloom… prickly pear, ocotillo, yucca and barrel cactus. Take a look.

Back at camp, we relaxed for the afternoon and recuperated a bit before a dinner of salmon and corn on the cob on the grill. No wood fires are allowed, but we’d bought charcoal and the grilled dinner was wonderful. Back to the Nature Walk for an after-dinner stroll.

The green heron was there again and a Big Bend slider (native turtle) was sitting on a rock, apparently enjoying the view. Down to the river, a toe dip in the Rio Grande and we retraced our steps back to camp. A good day and several more to come. Join us for more of Big Bend. Come for dinner… we’ve got plenty of food.