Massachusetts' Other Cape - Cape Ann Pt. 2

Cape Ann's city of Gloucester is well known as a fishing port and of course, the setting for “The Perfect Storm”, but it's much more if you take the time to stroll around and visit. Founded in 1623, it was one of the first English settlements in America, part of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and predates both the Salem and Boston settlements by several years. It's America's oldest seaport.

First of all, Gloucester is actually an island. Surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on three sides, the Blynman Cut /Annisquam River cut Gloucester off from the mainland on the west side. Fishing boats get in and out and kayaks circumnavigate the island, but it's not something Nine of Cups could do. The Blynman Cut Bridge connects Gloucester to the mainland and is the second busiest drawbridge on the US east coast. We watched little boats buck the tide and current getting in through the narrow cut. It's not something you'd approach lightly.

Gloucester (pronounced Glosta, just in case you were wondering) has a working waterfront and a fairly new Harbor Walk that allows visitors to get great views of the boats and harbor. We think the 1.2 mile self-guided walk encouraging tourists to “follow the green seaglass trail … ” along the waterfront and through the town was perhaps the idea of well-intentioned town council who didn't quite follow through. There's little explanation of what you're seeing and finding the trail to follow (must be a lack of seaglass) is sometimes a bit of a challenge. Granted, we did not have our GPS with us nor had we plotted our course in advance, but still …

The city claims a lot of firsts and superlatives. It's touted as having built the first schooner in the US (1723). Out of necessity, Gloucester fishermen invented the iconic Sou'wester hat. It has the oldest continuously operating marine railway in the US (1849). Gorton Seafood has had a processing plant here since 1849 and Clarence Birdseye, father of frozen foods, was freezing fish in Gloucester back in 1925. Gloucester even has its own sea serpent! We got a kick out of an historic city timeline which listed not only those firsts above, but makes reference to four men who were fined in 1648 for hunting raccoons instead of attending church!

Historically home to one of the largest fishing fleets in the US, Gloucester has lost over 10,000 men to the Atlantic Ocean in its nearly 400 year history, according to Wiki. The Man at the Wheel statue, Gloucester's fishermen's memorial, sits prominently on the shore walk facing the sea and lists those that have lost their lives.

A number of movies have been filmed here, “The Perfect Storm”, being the most famous in recent years. The events you watched or read about in The Perfect Storm were loosely based on true events which occurred in 1991 (after all, it is a Hollywood film). The Cape Pond Ice Company provides a landmarks map for tourists to check out the actual places talked about in the movie like the Crow's Nest Bar, Virgilio's Bakery and of course, the Cape Pond Ice Company.

Across the harbor on Rocky Neck is an active art colony. More important to sailors, however, is the historic Tarr and Wonson Paint Manufactory buildings, a quintessential part of Gloucester Harbor in since 1874 and best known for developing an innovative copper anti-fouling paint used on the bottom of boats prevent barnacles.

The waterfront is especially scenic. Gloucester dories line the docks and Gino at the Dory Shop down the way is responsible for making most of them.

We walked along the pier and watched the graceful schooner, Ardelle, return from a harbor tour.

An old lobster shack on the pier is used for demonstrating lobster traps to tourists.

We last visited Gloucester over a decade ago on our first trip in Nine of Cups up the US east coast. Revisiting by land was fun, but we think it would be great to bring Cups back here sometime, too. The view from the boat is always the best.

Massachusetts' Other Cape - Cape Ann Pt.1

 

If you're in Massachusetts and refer to “the Cape”, it's for certain you're talking about Cape Cod. There is, however, another cape … rocky Cape Ann … and, in its own way, it's every bit as lovely as Cape Cod, but much less touristy. Beyond the city of Gloucester (another blog post for another day), Cape Ann is home to the little towns of Rockport, Manchester-by-the-Sea and Essex and lots of little villages.

Driving along scenic Route 127 is a pleasure. It meanders close to the shore then curves inland and then back to the beach. You get a little taste of everything. The air smells salty and there are plenty of places to get out and stretch to appreciate the scenery and the day.

We whizzed through Manchester-by-the-Sea. There's no parking at the beach for non-residents. The town seems to have lots of rules which do not favor visitors. Once Puritans, always Puritans, I guess.

We took a tiny shore road to see the beach houses in the village of Magnolia. They're beyond what we'd ever be able to afford or want, but oh, some of them were lovely. The best part of this side trip was spotting the unique weathervanes that adorned the cupolas of the houses.

Each little town and village has something to offer in its own right, but the gem of them all on Cape Ann, in our opinion, is Rockport. Here is the quintessential little New England seaport village sitting right out on the tip of Cape Ann. It's breathtakingly lovely and it catches you as soon as it comes into view.

There's an old fishing shack on Bradley Wharf in Rockport Harbor that's known simply as Motif #1. Built in the 1840's, it's been the subject of many an artist's work and when you see it, you know why. We threaded our way around the harbor where glimpses of Motif #1 popped up unexpectedly down alleyways and from different vantage points. It's a gob-smacker of a view and my camera seemed to have a mind of its own as it snapped happily and David waited most patiently.

It's easy to wander here … up and down little streets, reading the posted menus of tiny little restaurants, peeking in shop windows at all the nautical novelties. A yodeling pickle? Really?

Bearskin Neck, a very tiny, tight, congested tourist area, is a specific area of town that sits out on a point. Once a military post during the War of 1812, it's now filled chock-a-block with galleries, souvenir shops and nosh opportunities. Lucky for us, it was a Tuesday and off-season. Evidently there was actually a bear that got caught in the tide in 1700 and was killed ... hence the name.

Continuing along Route 127A, the view over the Annisquam River was outstanding … enough so that David pulled off the road so I could walk back to take a photo.

We found a good spot on Wingaersheek Beach for a very late afternoon lunch break. Parking was available and free … even for visitors. We trudged up a deep sand path over the dunes and settled on some huge, smooth boulders for a wonderful low-tide view of a nearly deserted beach with the Annisquam Light in view. It really doesn't get much better.

The day was beginning to wane … and so were we. The little town of Essex would have to wait for another day. In case you noticed, we've completely missed talking about America's oldest seaport, Gloucester. Check in tomorrow because we sailors couldn't possibly miss the home of The Perfect Storm, sou'wester hats and anti-fouling paint.