Georgetown, Guyana's Capital - Pt. 3

We walked and walked and walked some more till we arrived at Georgetown's majestic City Hall. Built in 1889, it's in desperate need of repair, but the grandness of the Neo-Gothic colonial architecture shows through. city hall georgetown guyana

Queen Victoria stands regally and presides over the proceedings at Guyana's High Court (Victoria Law Courts) buildings (1887). Parliament is nearby, as is the National Library and the State House.

queen vicoria statue in georgetown guyana

We made our way to St. George's Cathedral. Built in 1899, this Gothic style Anglican church was once considered the “world's tallest wooden building”. Constructed primarily of greenheart, a local hardwood, it, too, is in dire need of restoration and work was in progress on what is now a national monument.

st. goerge's cathedral georgetown guyana

We headed to Stabroek Market, a huge cast iron building with a stately iron clock tower.

stabroek market georgetown guyana

Dating back to 1792, the market area is total chaos where you can buy anything from broccoli to brassieres and toilet plungers to gold. The stalls are tight and crowded. Hawkers and vendors are shouting and touting their wares. People are shoulder to shoulder, hustled along by the flow of the throng. The smell of rotting veggies, odd spices and human sweat prevail. Still, you can feel and absorb the frenetic energy of the place as you pass through. We were warned of pickpockets here, but escaped unscathed.

fresh market in georgetown guyana

We headed to the relative calm of the National Museum. It's housed in a non-descript building and is part natural history and part cultural history … although neither is done particularly well. The highlight of the museum is the giant sloth exhibition which has its own room. Evidently giant ground sloths (megatherium) once roamed the area, the skeletal remains of which were discovered by a miner in Guyana's interior. Considered to be one of the largest mammals that ever walked the earth, these guys were about the size of a modern day bull elephant.

guyana national museum in georgetown

Across the street from the museum is the Hibiscus Craft Market which begged a look. We quickly passed up the “made in China” trinkets and honed in on the local crafts including nibbee vine creations, basketry and carvings.

hibiscus craft market georgetown guyana

Though we appreciated the craftsmanship, nothing appealed to us. Pam, a native Guyanese friend, had recently given me a 40-year old, traditional Guyanese hat which now hung in the boat. What better souvenir that that?

pams hat

We were looking for a respite and found the Oasis Cafe for a refreshing iced latte. We'd planned a rum factory tour and tasting at the Demarara Distillers, but they canceled at the last minute with no alternative tours available during our stay. Sigh! No matter, we wandered some more and found ourselves at the lovely Promenade Gardens, a fine place to sit and relax in the shade next to a Ghandi statue and watch the weasels (mongooses?) that apparently enjoyed the park as much as we did. It seems, by the way, that the Mahatma needed spectacles and was fitted with them after the statue was completed.

ghandi statue georgetown guyana

All in all, Georgetown has been a surprise. It's a third world city, without a doubt, but it seems that there's a major effort underway to clean-up, renovate and restore. Traffic is horrendous and crazy and both driving and walking is a risk. The people, however, are warm, friendly and helpful. Beyond the colonial buildings, parks, statues and markets, there was so much to be seen by just wandering around and observing. We walked during the day and ventured out at night by taxi … they're cheap. We didn't flaunt jewelry or cash. We were alert and practiced typical street-wise, any-city behavior. We never felt threatened or at risk for our security.

While we were busy exploring Georgetown, Gem had arranged a tour to Guyana's legendary waterfalls at Kaieteur National Park. Pack your hiking shoes, your sunscreen and insect repellent, we're heading into the Interior tomorrow!

Georgetown, Guyana's Capital - Pt. 1

Getting there

georgetown guyana

Lonely Planet describes Guyana's capital city, Georgetown, as “dirty, expensive and dangerous.” With such an appealing reputation, we felt obligated to visit... if only to compare it to Colon, Panama, currently at the top of our “dirty, dangerous, least-liked” city list. We were up for some adventure and decided to spend a couple of days in Guyana's Big Smoke.

Lonely Planet

Getting to Georgetown from Hurakabra is usually a challenge, but we lucked out. We left Cups on the hook under the watchful eyes of Mike, the Hurakabra caretaker, and hitched a ride to Georgetown with Kit and Gem.

heading to georgetown in the fast boat

They have a “fast boat” which ate up the miles downriver pretty quickly … 35 miles at 35mph...jarring a few fillings loose along the way. Kit's boat was being hauled out at the Roeden Rust Marina in less than an hour.

haul out at roeden rust

Once the boat was hauled and stowed, we offloaded gear and Gem's “jungle Christmas tree” and made tracks for Georgetown. You have to look hard in this pic for Gem's leafless, needle-less tree that David is tying on the roof of the truck. She plans to paint it white and put fairy lights on it. Scotch pines are pretty rare in Guyana.

gems jungle christmas tree

Kit and Gem are both native Guyanese and there are no better tourist guides than locals. We passed through Parika, a port town along the Essequibo that we'd seen on our way upriver. Things always look different from the land side versus the sea side. There was a steady commentary from our hosts along the way which added color to the trip. The city and the entire coastal area is land reclaimed from the sea. It is all below sea level and a massive sea wall and canal system, originally constructed by the Dutch, protect the city from the sea. A large part of the national budget is spent maintaining the wall and pumping excess water out of the city and back into the sea.

sea wall in guyana

We crossed over the Demerara Harbour Bridge, an 1.15mi (1851m), floating toll bridge which Kit referred to as a pontoon bridge. It's not high enough for most commercial vessels, and therefore, two of its 61 spans retract to allow larger vessels to pass … causing, of course, major traffic jams since it's the only land connection between the east and west banks of the Demarara River other than ferries.

demarara harbour bridge in guyana

As we entered Georgetown, we were greeted by a tall Christmas tree wishing us a happy holiday season. With temps in the 90s (30s), it was a shock to remember that it's Christmas time.

christmas tree in guyana

We passed several landmarks … City Hall, Stabroek Market, St. George's Cathedral, the High Court with Queen Victoria's statue presiding over the premises … all places we planned to visit during the next couple of days.

stabroek market

We had reserved a room at the Signature Inn … US$50/night with breakfast. Gem had assured us it was a reasonable place to stay. We were surprised to find the bright orange and lime green hotel in the middle of a Queenstown district neighborhood. It was, indeed, most acceptable. Air-conditioning, shower, high-speed internet and clean … we couldn't have asked for much more.

signature inn in georgetown guyana

We basked in the cool, took showers, did some internet, found a little Creole restaurant nearby for dinner and cold beers, then returned to the cool and took second showers. Life is good in Georgetown at the moment.

Put on your walking shoes and come exploring Georgetown with us tomorrow.

The links in this post are affiliate links. We love Lonely Planet guide books and we find Trip Advisor very useful. If you click through and buy anything through these links or the links on the side of this page, we get a small commission and it costs you no extra money. Thank You!