Fruit of the Vine - Wines of the World

grapes  

Remember when I said cruising was our attempt to taste all the lobsters in the world? Or the ice cream? I lied. It was really to sample every possible wine there was ... not necessarily to determine which was best, but rather just which ones we liked, so we could buy more.

 

wine tasting

 

Our honeymoon nearly 30 years ago, was spent in the Napa and Sonoma Valley wine regions of California. We spent evenings at lovely B&B's and days roaming from vineyard to vineyard, picnicking on cheese, bread and wine. It was only natural that we'd seek out wines when we traveled outside the USA. Certain countries are memorable for us because of the wines they produce. Oh, we like other things about each country, for sure, but the wines always catch our attention. We are not connoisseurs by any stretch of the imagination. We like what we like and we prefer inexpensive. We're certainly not above drinking “Vin Rouge de la carton” … box wines are what are available in some places and quite frankly, some of them are quite palatable.

 

tour casks

 

South America produces some extraordinary wines. We loved Chile's Cabernet Sauvignons. We tried their Merlots, Syrahs and Pinot noirs. We experimented with Cameneres, with which we were unfamiliar, but the Cabernets were our favorites. We could often find a reasonable bottle of wine for $1-$3. If we were willing to splurge and spend $3.50 or more, we were hard put to find a bad wine. We had plenty aboard when we headed south through the Patagonian canals one year and across the South Pacific another.

 

argentina vineyard

 

We'd sampled Argentinian wines long ago while we still lived in the USA and disliked them. Come to find out, the Argentinians used to drink 90% of all their good wine themselves and export the lesser quality stuff. They produce in significant quantities now and share more of their good wine with the rest of the world. In fact, Argentina is ranked as the #5 wine producer in the world and wine is the national alcoholic beverage. Argentina's Malbec was our favorite. We tried many others including the distinctive Torrontes, an aromatic white, but it was too sweet and fruity for us. An average bottle of drinkable red ran us $3-4. We stocked up there, too. House wines (vino de casa), by the way, in any restaurant were almost always excellent and sometimes served in a traditional white “penguino” wine pitcher.

 

filgueira vineyard

 

Uruguay was a pleasant surprise. This small country between Brazil and Argentina is very Euro and shares much of its culture and traditions with Argentina. Interestingly enough, however, they have their own special wine variety, Tannat, which is an excellent, full-bodied red and different from any wines we'd sampled previously. We lucked out by meeting an Uruguayan couple in the boatyard with whom we became friends. The Filgueira's happened to own a vineyard and we spent lovely times at their vineyard and bodega, as well as their homes in Montevideo and Punta del Este. Needless to say, there was never a dearth of wine when we visited and when we left, Martha presented us with a case of their Tannat Reserve. What a parting gift! $5-6 bought us a reasonable bottle of wine. Tannats ranged a bit higher.

 

south africa vineyard

 

In South Africa, we visited the Winelands. Vineyard after vineyard, tasting room after tasting room, we felt compelled to try as many as possible and still manage to drive back to our hotel in a sober state. South Africa has been producing wine since the mid-17th century. They've got the hang of it. We are not “taste the wine and spit it out” kind of people. We taste and swallow. We can only visit a limited number of vineyards in a day without a picnic and a nap. We sampled Chardonnays and Chenin blancs. Colombards, Semillons, Pinot Noirs, Pinotages and Gamays made it past our lips. Even the fortified port wines and Muscats were given a try. The whites were our favorites. When we found out our oldest son was getting married, we put together what we called the “Safari collection”, critter wine chosen for not only for its taste, but its name, like Leopard's Leap and Tall Horse. Once again, a reasonable bottle of wine set us back $4-5 and we headed back to the States with seven cases of wine carefully stowed.

 

new zealand vineyard

 

We'd certainly heard about New Zealand wines, so when we arrived in 2009, we began our taste-testing in earnest and almost immediately. There was a vineyard directly across the channel from us. For sure, New Zealand's best offerings are its whites. Their Sauvignon blancs and Pinot gris are awesome. This little country has over 1,700 wine growers and we never tasted a bad wine. We especially liked the wines from Marlborough on the South Island and Hawke's Bay in the North. Comparably speaking though, the wines were definitely pricier and we spent $7-8 on sale per bottle. Many stores offered 10% off per case and between volume and sale prices, we managed to fill the wine locker.

 

pinot noir in tasmania

 

Australia's wine industry is blooming and they like to share. They're the 4th largest wine exporter in the world. Wine there is expensive, though, by our comparative standards. Interestingly enough, it's considerably cheaper to buy Australian wine in the USA, than it is in Australia. Go figure! Though we've tasted many Australian wines, the only vineyards we've managed to visit so far have been in Tasmania, where the cool climate allows excellent growing conditions especially for the Pinot noirs. We found wine, even on sale, to be expensive in Australia and we began brewing our own beer instead of indulging in as much wine. When we return, we'll see what South Australia has to offer.

 

noc wine cellar

 

As far as storage goes, we've talked before about David's transformation of empty space under the aft berth along the hull into a cushioned wine cellar. What better place to store wine than where it's dark and a constant, cool temperature. Plus it's easily accessible and occupies otherwise dead space. We use socks as a protective covering for each bottle … white for white, dark for reds. Granted, some time we might have a little sediment shake-up, but if you let it settle down a bit, it's no big deal. You can always put it through a sieve.

In the Galley - AFS

recipe  

With my recent post on provisioning and my nifty Excel spreadsheets, you'd think I was the epitome of efficiency and always had exactly what I needed on the boat at any given time. Wrong! Invariably, when I'm looking for an ingredient that I'm sure is on the boat, it's actually back on the grocery store shelf where I pondered and pondered its purchase and decided not to buy it after all. Who needs tahini paste?

There's the other situation when though I plan for a couple weeks or more beyond our provisioning trips, we just use up more than anticipated or something I was counting on goes bad. I go into the larder and yikes! no corn, low on eggs, no butter, none of that special spice that makes everything taste good. This situation calls for drastic measures. It calls for imagination and creativity in the galley. It calls for AFS.

“AFS … hmm … what sort of abbreviation or acronym is that”, you're asking? It's not like a GPS or an AIS or even a VHF. AFS stands for Another F##$%#! Substitution. AFS is when you're missing three of the five ingredients from a recipe, but you decide to make it anyway. AFSs are common towards the end of a passage or the last days at a remote anchorage when you don't want to go back to land and you're willing to sacrifice “usual” for the more “unusual” outcomes in the galley.

 

moldy cream cheese

 

Some substitutions are easy...white vinegar in place of an egg, pancake syrup in place of honey, canned or dried instead of fresh, walnuts instead of almonds. I'm talking a real substitution. I have a recipe for a Crab and Artichoke dip which we think is outstanding. Come to find out, if you don't have the crab NOR the artichoke, it still tastes okay or you can add mushrooms … assuming you have cream cheese (scrape off the blue, it's okay) and maybe some bread or crackers to put it on.

 

one million recipes

 

I have one of those Million Recipe software programs that allow you to enter the ingredients you have and it comes with a recipe that uses them. Unfortunately, when all you have are cans of stuff you've been avoiding eating, some moldy cheese, sauerkraut and a carrot, it's hard to come up with a reasonable recipe. David's fishing luck usually runs out about then, too. We make do.

Part of the challenge is making do with what you have and being happy with it instead of grousing about what you don't have. Certainly, with all the right ingredients, you can make most anything you want. It's the positive attitude and sense of ingenuity (and humor) that makes AFS cooking such an adventure.

On the other hand, I remember adding so much stuff to a tuna casserole (without the tuna) that I finally gave up and we pronounced it totally inedible. Peanut butter sandwiches that night! Sometimes the AFS approach just doesn't work, but when it does, I've got a whole new recipe.

Breakfast at the Modern Diner

modern diner  

We're not big fans of going out to eat. We used to enjoy it when we had regular paychecks coming in, but now it seems it's easier and cheaper to eat at home and the cook always serves up fresh ingredients and serves whatever we're in the mood for. The other morning, however, we had a chance to get out of the house for a few hours and wondered what we might do to take advantage of our precious free time together. We didn't want to go shopping and we've been feeling antzy to try something new ... go somewhere different for change. A little research had me looking for interesting things to see or do in nearby towns and the Modern Diner caught my attention.

 

modern diner menu

 

First of all, we like diners. They're cheap, down-to-earth and though the offerings are not always the healthiest, the food is usually basic and tasty. The Modern is just over the Rhode Island state line in Pawtucket and it was mid-morning, so we headed there for breakfast. The Modern doesn't have a website or a Facebook page, but enough folks talk about it. Trip Advisor, Roadside America, Yelp, even Wikipedia had something to say.

 

counter service at the modern diner

 

Diners are nostalgic icons of another time in America. Coincidentally, Rhode Island calls itself “the diner state”. The first diner in the USA appeared just down the road in Providence, RI. Entrepreneur Walter Scott offered pies, light meals and hot coffee off his horse-drawn canteen truck to night workers during lunch breaks and at the ends of shifts back in 1872. I guess we can blame the American Industrial Revolution for beginning the fast food epidemic. I remember heading to the Rochdale Diner or the Cherry Valley Diner with my Dad when I was a little girl. The best part was sitting on the tall stools at the counter and twirling around until I fell off or Dad made me stop. Diners were common then. McDonalds was not.

A 1940 Sterling Streamliner, The Modern Diner is anything but modern nowadays. In fact, it's the first diner to be included on the National Register for Historic Places. Evidently, Disney used a sufficiently identifiable likeness of the Modern in one of their cartoons. The Modern folks sued, won and added a small addition, they call The Depot onto the back of the diner proper. I wasn't interested in dining in the non-diner portion though. It wouldn't have been the same.

 

modern diner specials

 

A narrow corridor between the dining car and the Depot, serves as the entrance and waiting area. The parking lot looked crowded and there were already people waiting in line. We thought there would be a long wait on a busy weekend morning, but we were seated within 5-6 minutes, just long enough to let us peruse all the specials mounted in plastic on the wall.

 

tapenade omellette

 

This is a neighborhood kind of place. Everyone knew everyone. Most folks didn't even require a menu. People were friendly and full of good-natured chatter. We got a booth for two and coffee was offered immediately. We checked out the menus, but my mind was already made up … a tapenade omelet served with home fries and toast.

We ate, chatted and people-watched. Tall and short, fat and skinny, young and old made their way in and out for breakfast. Some waited for booths, but the singles just made their way to the counter. When the waiter was too busy to fill their coffee mugs, they went behind the counter and helped themselves.

 

pellet hole

 

The window beside me, looking out on East Street, had a bullet hole scar and I noted a bit of breeze streaming in from the outside. David assured me it was from an overzealous teen with a pellet gun, rather than a Magnum.

We might not eat out often, but we when we do, we strive for the distinctive. And today, we did just fine.