Celebrating a Circumnavigation pt. 1

St. Helena Bay

We were hard put to come up with a good way to celebrate our circumnavigation. We wanted it to be memorable, of course, and fun and also within the budget. Most of our cruising friends have already departed South Africa, so a big party didn't make sense. It's a big event for us, long in the realization. Since it's been just we two for all these years, we thought maybe a romantic getaway for two might be an appropriate celebration though neither Jelly nor Nine of Cups would be with us. For most people, getting ON a boat is a vacation. For us, spending time on land is a welcome break once in awhile. So, off we headed, up South Africa's west coast to St. Helena Bay, not so far away.

st helena bay

We got a late start and followed the R27 coast road north out of town. By chance, we stopped in the little Cape Town suburb of Bloubergstrand for lunch at On the Rocks. Situated right on the beach, this restaurant had great curb appeal, as well as a good menu posted at its entry.

on the rocks curb appeal

We  didn't realize that it would also provide superb views of Table Mountain from a totally different perspective. We sat on the patio lingering over lunch, appreciating the day, the view and each other. A good start to a romantic getaway.

view of table mountain south africa

We hugged the coast for awhile then headed across the peninsula across dry, parched land to St. Helena Bay. The little town of St. Helena isn't much … a couple of restaurants, a Spur mini-supermarket, a couple of shops and a very large fish processing plant that emanated such a malodorous stench as we drove by, it could make your eyes water. The Oystercatcher Lodge, a quiet, 4-star B&B, nestled in the beach dunes at Shelly Point in St Helena Bay was our choice for the romantic getaway and we prayed it was a safe distance from the fish factory. It was. Whew! The lodge was accessed through a securely gated, rather ostentatious entrance arch.

oyster catcher lodge st helena bay south africa

A giant-sized Vasco da Gama greeted on the way in.

vasco de gama st helena bay south africa

Our room was lovely with an Atlantic view and a two minute walk to a shell-covered beach. We walked the beach hand-in-hand, then sat on a well-placed bench, all snuggled up against the ocean breeze, watching a superb sunset that lingered, causing the sand and beach scrub to turn shades of pink and orange. Cormorants, gulls and terns worked hard for their dinners.

sunset st helena bay south africa

We took selfies on the beach.

selfie st helena bay south africa

We ventured back to St. Helena Bay to the Alegria Restaurant for dinner, thankfully upwind from the fish factory. The Alegria was a friendly, pleasant place on the ocean with a good menu and an attentive wait staff. It wasn't busy and we enjoyed our dinner at a private table on the outside patio.

David had chilled champagne for our return. We sat and listened to the surf, sipping champers and sharing a chocolate bar under a near full moon. It's only one overnight away before we need to return to Cape Town, but this night, we were celebrating us in style.

I said..."Enough of the wind already!"

It's been blowing gale force winds since we arrived in Cape Town at the Royal Cape Yacht Club. If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times … enough of the wind already!  Poor Nine of Cups is on a tight leash. The doubled-up docklines stretch and strain and groan. The wind shrieks through the rigging. The boat rocks. There's a loose halyard on a nearby boat that about drives us insane with its banging. taut lines at cape town south africa

Last time we were here I remember asking a Cape Town sailor about the weekly sailing competitions at the yacht club. “It's blowing 35 knots, are you still going out?” I inquired incredulously. With a grin on his face and in a rather blasé tone, he replied “If we waited till it was less than 35 knots, we'd never sail.” And so it is in Cape Town. Chicago and Wellington have nothing on this windy city. The flag's flying straight out all the time.

flag is straight out

It's late in the season and there's no one in the berths on either side of us. The short, narrow finger pier for boarding tilts precariously with each big gust. When walking up to the clubhouse, which is predictably a mile away for visiting yachts, it's a challenge to just keep ourselves from being blown away.

tilting dock in cape town south africa

Lest you think I'm whinging for nothing, we've seen consistent 30-35 knots for the past 3-4 days with little respite. Gusts have topped out near 60 knots. That's really a lot of wind. We sailors prefer 15-20 knots when we're actually sailing and little to no wind at all when we're berthed. We have things to do and with 35 knot winds, climbing the mast is out of the question (unless you're a Cape Town sailor, that is).

wind speed aboard nine of cups

A few positive notes … we will not lose our sea legs while we're berthed here. Cape Town is one of the most vibrant, beautiful cities in the world. And … the view from Nine of Cups ain't bad!

table mountain in cape town south africa

Sorry to disappoint you, but...

Sometimes we've just had enough. David's definitely tougher than I am. A decade ago, I could handle the rough seas and the seasickness and the lameness I felt after a poor sleep and laugh them off when I got to port. A good hot shower washed it all away. Not any more. I'm tired of it all. This last passage was difficult for me and I've decided that I'm through with sailing. I said I'd sail until it wasn't fun any more. Well, it's not fun any more. Sorry to disappoint you all, but we're swallowing the anchor. We'll just sell the boat here and fly home and start all over again on land or …. april-fools_2868232b

NOT! Happy April Fool's Day. Did we get you??? No, we're not swallowing the anchor yet. We've got an ocean of adventure to look forward to.

Here's a great website featuring the best April Fool's hoaxes of all time.