In Search of Shweshwe

Sometimes I get sidetracked by some trivial thing I see or read about. While at the Dias Museum the other day, I was interested in an exhibit about a unique fabric known as “shweshwe” (shway-shway). It's considered the “denim or tartan of South Africa”, incorporating intricate geometric designs in a range of colors, but more traditionally indigo blue, and manufactured using an acid discharge and roller printing technique on pure 100% cotton calico.

Evidently, the early German, Dutch and eastern European settlers in South Africa were familiar with “blaudruck” (blue print) fabric, used by peasants and farmers, and brought it to South Africa with them when they emigrated here. The story goes that French missionaries gave Lesotho's King Moshoeshoe I (pronounced Mu-shway-shway) a gift of the blue print fabric in the 1840s. He liked it and it became popular with the locals as well as the immigrants. The name of the fabric was referred to thereafter as shweshwe or isi-shweshwe. Today, the same fabric is even used in high fashion.

I asked Brigita, a pleasant docent at the Dias Museum, about the current availability of shweshwe. She actually took the time to call around and found a shop right in Mosselbaai that sold it. We visited Lekker Lap Materiale the other day and sure enough, there were several shweshwe colors and prints available.

Corne (Cor-nay) was happy to help. I chose a more traditional blue print and purchased some.

It had the official shweshwe mark on the selvage. I noted that it was printed on one side and solid on the other, one of the characteristics of shweshwe fabric.

Used for dresses, skirts, aprons and more, shweshwe is traditionally worn by newly married Xhosa women (makoti) and married Sotho women. After I knew what it was, I reviewed some of the pictures I'd taken of women in traditional dress in Durban and there it was … shweshwe fashion right before my eyes. By the way, evidently it is available in the USA and used primarily as a quilting fabric.

In Eastern Europe, the traditional blaudruck fabric was worn by women as a sign of solidarity during the socialist movement. Here in South Africa, shweshwe was worn as a political statement by white women opposed to Apartheid.

While at the fabric shop, Corne also pointed out a bright, colorful African pattern on a Dutch waxprint fabric (like batik) that was called Mama Africa. How could I resist?

So, what will I do with the fabric. Well, I've covered pillows with fabric showing local designs before and made aprons and placemats … Panama, Fiji, New Zealand. This time, however, I haven't given it much thought. It's a souvenir of Mosselbaai and South Africa and I'm sure I'll put it to good use … and it stows more easily than that 8' tall carved giraffe I wanted to buy.

Prince Henry the Navigator

Today is Prince Henry the Navigator's birthday … as good a reason as any to celebrate. Born on March 4, 1394, this Portuguese prince, soldier, and patron of explorers, was an armchair sailor of sorts. He funded many expeditions from Portugal to explore the western coast of Africa, but never actually went on any of the voyages himself. Without a doubt, the safest way to sail and explore.

Instrumental in the launch of Europe's Great Age of Discovery in the 15th and 16th centuries, Henry was responsible for establishing the first European maritime school for ocean navigation c.1418 which included an astronomical observatory in Sagres, Portugal. He gathered together cartographers, mathematicians and navigators  to document and share their knowledge and learn from each other.  Their knowledge base of wind patterns, currents and trade winds in the Atlantic plus the determination of latitude were invaluable to the expansion of the Portuguese empire. Henry's goals were to chart the West African coast and beyond, establish trade routes and spread Christianity.

Up until Henry's sponsored voyages, the most southerly point explorers had managed was Cape Bojador, a rough stretch of water  off the coast of Africa's western Sahara Desert. Henry's sponsored voyages pushed further and further south resulting in the discovery and colonization of several Atlantic archipelagos like the Azores and Madeira.

The development of the caravel, an easy-to-navigate ship based on existing fishing boats, was instrumental in furthering Portugal's discoveries.

By 1462, only two years after Henry's death, the Portuguese had explored the African coast as far south as present-day Sierra Leone. Bartolomeu Dias reached the Cape of Good Hope at the southern tip of Africa in 1489. Vasco da Gama became the first European sailor to make landfall in India in 1498. It led to the discovery of Brazil and South America and ultimately, first circumnavigation of the world by the Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan.

As we get ready to sail around the bottom of Africa and round the Cape of Good Hope (previously known as Cape of Storms … hmmm) with some amount of anticipation, it's hard not to think of the bravery of early navigators and explorers and those who supported their efforts. They paved the way, little by little, to new worlds … not relying on charts and navigational aids as we do, but rather creating them as they sailed.

Happy Birthday, Henry … and thanks for your support.

Shaka and the Zulus

Having been berthed here in Durban for nearly three months, we've come to learn a bit more about the history of the area, especially the Zulu. In Kwa-Zulu Natal province (KZN, it's called), there is a specific municipality known as Zululand, but historically a large part of KZN in which the Zulus dominated is referred to as Zululand. isiZulu is the most widely spoken language in South Africa and Zulus comprise about 97% of the population here. Shaka, legendary king of the Zulus nearly two centuries ago, is still an influence on the Zulu culture today.

Shaka kaSenzangakhona was born c.1787, the illegitimate son of Senzangakhona kaJama (his father) and Nandi (his mother). He is considered one of the most significant monarchs of not only the Zulu kingdom, but of all southern Africa. He lived in an area between the Drakensberg and the Indian Ocean, territory through which we've just traveled.

He rose to power by becoming a fierce warrior with a strong following and subsequently killing his half-brother and usurping power. According to several sources, there were no Zulus prior to Shaka. Many individual Nguni tribes inhabited the area. Through war and diplomacy, he is credited with uniting many of the Nguni people into a powerful nation which exerted significant influence over much of South Africa. He named his people Zulus after his grandfather, Dinizulu.

Shaka has been called a military genius for the reforms and innovations he introduced. His innovations included the introduction of the short thrusting spear (iklwa) which was very efficient and deadly in hand-to-hand combat. He was noted early on for fast-moving, surprise attacks and ambushes. He later developed and utilized the “buffalo horn” battle tactic very effectively. The Zulus were formidable enemies.

Shaka is also noted for the brutality of his reign. He was purportedly responsible for more Zulu deaths than his enemies. After battles, any warrior with wounds on his back was killed because he was thought to have been running away. Young warriors who were thought to be less than brave were required to run full speed into thorn trees. If they did not run fast enough or with enough zeal, they were killed. When his mother died, Shaka ordered a year of mourning during which no crops could be planted, all calves born were killed and all pregnant women and their husbands were killed. He is known for total annihilation of his enemies in battle. There was no surrender.

On September 22, 1828, Shaka was stabbed to death by his bodyguard, Mbopha, and his two half-brothers, Dingane and Mhlangana ending his decade-long reign. At the time of his death, the Zulu nation was over 250,000 people strong with more than 50,000 warriors.

Today, Shaka Zulu  is remembered in many ways, but primarily as the founder of a proud and fierce people. There's uShaka Marine World here in Durban, King Shaka International Airport and Shakaland cultural village among his namesakes. September 24th is a national holiday in South Africa celebrated by all as Heritage Day, but previously celebrated by the Zulu as Shaka's Day. In 2016, Zulus will celebrate Zulu 200, the bicentennial anniversary of the founding of the Zulu nation.