Massachusetts' Other Cape - Cape Ann Pt.1

 

If you're in Massachusetts and refer to “the Cape”, it's for certain you're talking about Cape Cod. There is, however, another cape … rocky Cape Ann … and, in its own way, it's every bit as lovely as Cape Cod, but much less touristy. Beyond the city of Gloucester (another blog post for another day), Cape Ann is home to the little towns of Rockport, Manchester-by-the-Sea and Essex and lots of little villages.

Driving along scenic Route 127 is a pleasure. It meanders close to the shore then curves inland and then back to the beach. You get a little taste of everything. The air smells salty and there are plenty of places to get out and stretch to appreciate the scenery and the day.

We whizzed through Manchester-by-the-Sea. There's no parking at the beach for non-residents. The town seems to have lots of rules which do not favor visitors. Once Puritans, always Puritans, I guess.

We took a tiny shore road to see the beach houses in the village of Magnolia. They're beyond what we'd ever be able to afford or want, but oh, some of them were lovely. The best part of this side trip was spotting the unique weathervanes that adorned the cupolas of the houses.

Each little town and village has something to offer in its own right, but the gem of them all on Cape Ann, in our opinion, is Rockport. Here is the quintessential little New England seaport village sitting right out on the tip of Cape Ann. It's breathtakingly lovely and it catches you as soon as it comes into view.

There's an old fishing shack on Bradley Wharf in Rockport Harbor that's known simply as Motif #1. Built in the 1840's, it's been the subject of many an artist's work and when you see it, you know why. We threaded our way around the harbor where glimpses of Motif #1 popped up unexpectedly down alleyways and from different vantage points. It's a gob-smacker of a view and my camera seemed to have a mind of its own as it snapped happily and David waited most patiently.

It's easy to wander here … up and down little streets, reading the posted menus of tiny little restaurants, peeking in shop windows at all the nautical novelties. A yodeling pickle? Really?

Bearskin Neck, a very tiny, tight, congested tourist area, is a specific area of town that sits out on a point. Once a military post during the War of 1812, it's now filled chock-a-block with galleries, souvenir shops and nosh opportunities. Lucky for us, it was a Tuesday and off-season. Evidently there was actually a bear that got caught in the tide in 1700 and was killed ... hence the name.

Continuing along Route 127A, the view over the Annisquam River was outstanding … enough so that David pulled off the road so I could walk back to take a photo.

We found a good spot on Wingaersheek Beach for a very late afternoon lunch break. Parking was available and free … even for visitors. We trudged up a deep sand path over the dunes and settled on some huge, smooth boulders for a wonderful low-tide view of a nearly deserted beach with the Annisquam Light in view. It really doesn't get much better.

The day was beginning to wane … and so were we. The little town of Essex would have to wait for another day. In case you noticed, we've completely missed talking about America's oldest seaport, Gloucester. Check in tomorrow because we sailors couldn't possibly miss the home of The Perfect Storm, sou'wester hats and anti-fouling paint.

Witch City Walking Tour - Salem, Massachusetts Pt. 2

History AND Hysteria

Despite its colorful maritime history, Salem is really about all things witch. The Salem Witch Trials of 1692 represent one of America's “most notorious cases of mass hysteria, and has been used in political rhetoric and popular literature as a vivid cautionary tale about the dangers of isolationism, religious extremism, false accusations and lapses in due process.”

I remember reading and having a bit part in Arthur Miller's The Crucible while in college. The play is set in Salem during the witch trials and explores the lives of those accused of witchcraft. Today, Salem embraces its witchy identity and infuses it into most everything in the town. Police cars sport a witch logo. There's Witchcraft Heights Elementary School, and the sports field on Gallows Hill was indeed the location for public hangings in centuries past. Whether its an overhead door company, the Coast Guard or a segway rental, there's no escaping from the witchy side of things. The Essex Street pedestrian mall is chock-a-block full of witch-y restaurants and boutiques. From t-shirts, to wine, to witchy costumes, to spell casting and tarot readings, it's all here in the Witch City and available for sale.

Along our path we came across the Johnathan Corwin House, the oldest house in Salem and an example of high-style First Period architecture. More important than its age is its nickname, “The Witch House”. Corwin was one of the judges in the infamous 1692 Salem Witch Trials. It's the only extant building directly associated with the witch trials. Its dark stained exterior and small windows give the house the illusion of being somewhat sinister and mysterious.

We just couldn't ignore the Bewitched statue celebrating the long-running TV show, parts of which were actually filmed in Salem. The movie Hocus Pocus was also filmed on site as were many other movies, all lending to the city's witchy credibility. The Wiccan influence here is strong.

We had a quick lunch at the Witches' Brew, an appropriately named cafe for “witch city” dining. No special concoctions or potions were served, but the club sandwich was good.

Back to the reality of happenings back in 1692. Here's the encapsulated, Cliff Notes version. There was rivalry between some of the families in town. Some young girls started acting weird and were diagnosed as being “afflicted”. This was blamed on spells cast by local women whom they claimed were witches. The town fathers and several townspeople, being staunch Puritans (who left England, mind you, because of religious intolerance) went crazy. When friends tried to defend the accused, they, too, were accused of witchcraft. Accusation after accusation ensued and before you know it, they were hanging people as witches. No burning at the stake occurred in Salem.

One poor fellow, Giles Corey, was pressed to death. In all, 20 people were executed and over 200 people were accused. Not a pleasant chapter in America's early history.

The Salem Witch Trials Memorial is quite the solemn place. Located next to the Old Burying Point, there's a small park surrounded by a stone wall in which are embedded granite benches. Each of the 20 benches bears the name of a person executed during the trials. Seven locust trees were planted in the plant and it's said when the leaves shed their leaves, it represents tears shed for those unjustly executed.

The Old Burying Point next door to the Witch Memorial is the second oldest cemetery in America and the oldest in Salem. Established in 1637, the gravestones are weathered and beaten, but most are discernible and it was interesting, as always, to view the stones and walk the grounds. Note that those accused and executed for witchcraft were not allowed to be buried here (a Christian cemetery and all) and it is thought that their families recovered their bodies and put them to rest in unmarked graves.

Walking the streets of Salem today is interesting. Meeting someone dressed as a witch is not uncommon.

Needless to say, Hallowe'en is the high holiday here and they're all prepared. The Annual Witches' Ball will be held soon in conjunction with the Annual Psychic Fair and Witchcraft Expo followed by the Festival of the Dead. Don't miss it. Grab your cat and your broom and fly on in ... parking's free.

Witch City Walking Tour - Salem Massachusetts Pt. 1

History OR Hysteria?

Founded in 1626, there are several historical aspects to explore in the town of Salem, Massachusetts. Paramount are the infamous witch trials of 1692 and then, of course, the short-lived, but lucrative trading and maritime history which was at its peak between the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. We were hoping to do a little exploration of both.

We arrived early at the Salem NPS Visitor's Center and asked for a “non-commercial” walking map. Every map and brochure we found had witch museums, wax museums and/or haunted house tours on it, but little of historical interest that appealed to us. We wanted to see some of the real Salem beyond the hype. Bob Grant, the volunteer ranger answered “Do you want hysteria or history?” I smiled and answered “Mostly history, but a little hysteria would be okay”. He was referring, of course, to the 17th century witch trial hysteria that attracts so much tourism versus Salem's maritime history. We really were interested in both … with the history and without the hype. He supplied us with a useable map, lots of local knowledge, some brochures on specific sites to see and sent us on our way.

Once again, we were blessed with a glorious late summer's day. The temp hovered around 70F (21C), the sky was cerulean blue and the leaves were just beginning to turn to their fall-ish colors. It was a mid-week day and there were few tourists around, perfect for our kind of exploring. We walked past the impressive Peabody-Essex Museum. We've visited this world-class museum several times in the past. We seemed to inhale a sense of the building and its contents just by walking by.

The Essex Street pedestrian mall is chock-a-block full of witch-y restaurants and boutiques. From t-shirts, to wine, to witchy costumes, it's all here in the Witch City and available for sale, but we were aiming for witch-less history to start.

Blending its witch history with its maritime history, the town fathers sponsored a contest for local artists to create ship's figureheads and the resulting works of art were displayed on lampposts throughout the city.

We decided to begin our exploration in earnest with the McIntire Architectural Walking Tour. Samuel McIntire was “one of the earliest and most influential architects (and wood carvers) in the United States.” According to Bob's directions, a stroll down Chestnut Street was a must in order to view its grand, McIntire-inspired, Federal-style mansions. Uneven brick sidewalks, stately, tall shade trees and old gas lamps lined the streets graced by period mansion after mansion. Some of the buildings were available for tours including The Hamilton House, a Federal-era public building, designed by McIntire and constructed in 1805 as an assembly hall.

The port of Salem was a hopping place by the time the colonies reached a revolutionary crisis with Britain in 1775. Fortune-seeking sea captains like Richard Derby accumulated great wealth, based on the cod fish export and molasses import trades. Trading easily caught and salt-preserved cod brought valuable cargoes of fresh citrus, grapes, wine, iron and salt back to Salem. Molasses from the West Indies was a key commodity for the very profitable rum industry. The houses in this historic district definitely reflected the wealth of its early (and current) residents. Derby, by the way, is considered America's first millionaire.

Beyond McIntire and Derby, lots of famous people have either been born or lived in Salem including Nathaniel Hawthorne. The House of Seven Gables, made famous by Hawthorne's novel of the same name, was right up Derby Street, not far away. We'd visited here in the past, too, and rather than opting for a tour, we decided just to visit the gift shop which afforded us a chance to get a good photo of the house itself.

Across the street, Ye Olde Pepper Companie, touted as the oldest candy store in the USA, beckoned us in for at least a look-see. Along with all the Hallowe'en candies and chocolates on display, there were barrels of peppermint and lemon Gibralters and a black molasses stick candy known as Black Jacks, candies known to satisfy the “sweet tooth” of colonial folk two centuries ago.

Everything seems to be within walking distance in Salem, including the historic port and wharves. We'd moored at the Pickering Wharf back in 2000, but things had changed since then. The Salem Maritime Historic Park, founded in 1938, was the first NPS historic site. Salem, by the way, is also the birthplace of Nathaniel Bowditch, considered the father of modern navigation. Though first published in 1892, we still have his book The American Practical Navigator aboard Nine of Cups. Some books are timeless.

When we visited last, the tall ship Friendship was being rigged at the Charlestown Navy Yard, so we missed seeing her. A reconstruction of a 171-foot three-masted Salem East India trader built in 1797, the Friendship is the largest wooden, Coast Guard certified, sailing vessel to be built in New England in more than a century and she's pretty impressive.

We could have delved deeper into Salem's maritime history, but this would have to suffice for one day. We moved on to the witch-y side of Salem next … and there was definitely much to see.

Stay tuned for Hysteria AND History Part II.