A Respite in Lovely Langres
/Day 60 – Villeguesin – Langres
The forecast was for hot and humid once again, but we were looking forward to a shorter day. Our hosts at the château, Richard and Laurence, were up with us at 0630 for petit déjeuner… breakfast. They bid us adieu by 0700 and we were on our way along a pleasant path beside the canal once again. A slight breeze kept us cool-er, but not cool.
Walking along the Champagne-Bourgogne Canal
We were intrigued with the locks that appeared on the canal about every ¼ mile. There must have been at least a 20’ drop in water level between one lock to the next, but we didn’t see any boats going through.
Checking out the locks on the Champagne-Bourgogne Canal
Once away from the canal, there were gradual climbs and descents. At Richard’s suggestion, we took a slight detour to see the Source of Marne River and Sabinus’ Cave. Richard filled us in on the story of Julius Sabinus before we left. Sabinus led a rebellion against Rome c. 69 AD, in order ‘to set up an independent Gaulish state. After his defeat he was hidden for many years by his wife Epponina. The story of the couple, with emphasis on the loyalty of Epponina (known as "Éponine"), became popular in France during the 18th and 19th centuries.’ How could we miss this?
Actually there wasn’t much to see. The source of the Marne was a little more fascinating than the source of Thames, but less exciting than the source of the Mississippi. As with all rivers, their sources are unremarkable.
The Source of the Marne River … not very impressive, but a river has got to start somewhere!
Sabinus’ cave was also pretty unremarkable. Visitors can’t enter the cave (not that I would have) and there isn’t really much to see. It was, however, a pleasant, cool diversion.
Back on the trail, the medieval city of Langres popped into view perched high on a hill … wow! We entered through the city’s main gate, Porte des Moulins, and loved it from the moment we entered. We planned to take a layday here and recuperate from the heat. We learned a new French word today: la canicule – heatwave, scorching heat. Interestingly, it’s also an English word meaning ‘dog days’.
Porte des Moulins
When we reached our lodging for the night, we gave of sigh of disappointment. Maison L’Arthure was strategically located close to the center which was great, but the building was a depressing-looking place. We rang the bell… no answer. We telephoned and Valerie came to the door to let us in. We followed her through a dark, cramped entryway. She opened the door to the house and … it was like Dorothy opening her eyes in Oz for the first time. Wow! It was gorgeous inside, modern and spacious and absolutely huge. Can’t tell a book by its cover.
We settled into our room then headed out for a very late lunch at a cafe on the plaza. We hadn’t enjoyed moule et frites, a French specialty, since French Guiana …a heaping portion of mussels steamed in white wine and herbs served in a steaming kettle with a side of French fries, all washed down with a cold end-of- walk beer … and don’t forget, a basket of crusty French bread on the side to soak up the broth. Most times life is good; sometimes it’s even better.
Moules et frites
Day 60 – Villeguesin – Langres
12.47 miles walked / 28,995 steps
Leg distance: 11 miles / 445 miles to Canterbury
A Layday in Lovely Langres
If we had to pick a day to lay over, recuperate and thoroughly enjoy our surroundings, Langres was definitely a good choice. It’s a beautiful city, set high on a hill, surrounded by ancient walls. We had a somewhat lazy morning, but with the heat, we set out to explore early enough to take advantage of any cool temps the day was likely to offer. Coffee and a croissant for breakfast at a local boulangerie, then we strolled along the wall’s medieval ramparts, once defensive and now recreational.
Boulangeries are great for early morning breads and pastries.
According to Wiki … ‘As the capital of the Roman-Gallic tribe known as the Lingones, the city was originally called Andematunnum, then Lingones, and now Langres.’ The 3.5 km (2.2 mile) walk along the ramparts led us past seven city portals and 12 towers, ‘which demonstrate the evolution of the fortifications from the Hundred Years War (1337-1453) to the 19thcentury.’ The views of Marne Valley spread below us were stunning. It’s a pretty impressive walk and, with few others walkers out, we had it mostly to ourselves. Take a look.
Ancient Roman arches
Walking the ramparts of Langres … Piquant Tower and a splendid view of the Marne Valley
Red Tower & Trough Gate
St. John’s Tower c.1538
Langres’ most famous son is Didier Diderot, an 18th century philosopher and ‘father of the encyclopedia’. His statue stands proudly in Place Diderot in the center of Langres.
Place Diderot in the old city of Langres
Back at the Maison L’Arthure, we met up with our host, Valerie. Her late husband, Arthure, was an artist and a sculptor and his works were displayed throughout the house. The house, it turns out, was absolutely huge and included a gallery, a music studio and a lovely garden. Valerie is a professional classical guitarist and gave us a short concert at our request … no audio, I’m sorry to say.
Valerie played and sang for us in the gallery of Maison L’Arthure.
Day 61 – Langres – Villiers sur Suize
We were up and out at 0530, refreshed by a day off. The heatwave had finally broken and we enjoyed the early morning cool. The city streets were quiet in the gray dawn disturbed only by the sound of our footfalls. We exited the city through the Port Longue. Down, down, down we went to the canal below.
We exited the city through the Port Longue.
Down the path and out of the walled city
Early morning view of the town below as we make our way down, down, down to the canal
Walking along the Champagne-Bourgogne Canal was easy and pleasant. We could walk side by side and chat and plan. Our conversation was interrupted by a tiny fawn that wandered onto the canal path. Still with its newborn spots, it had apparently lost its mother. It bleated a heartrending, barely audible mew, obviously distressed. It disappeared into the brush for a few moments and we waited quietly and as it emerged once more. More walkers approached and it retreated quietly into the bush once again to hide..
We walked along the canal for what seemed like miles (because it was) until we diverted along a forest path and into the small, but picturesque village of Villiers sur Suize. We lunched on plat du jours at the local cafe which was also our hotel, Auberge de la Fontaine.
Auberge de la Fontaine
The rooms were in another building. Our room was a bit cramped, but adequate. The bathroom/shower however, was the tiniest yet. A portly person could not have fit into the shower stall. There was no soap tray, nor a shelf for shampoo and bending over to get these while showering necessitated some unusual gymnastic maneuvers. Why are bathrooms always so small in these hotels? Perhaps, an afterthought? They construct the hotel room and then remember they should probably add a bathroom, so they take a closet, add a toilet, sink and shower and voila … a room with bathroom en suite. Don’t mind me … I’m obviously spoiled by larger bathrooms at home.
Day 61 – Langres – Villiers sur Suize
14.34 miles walked / 33,358 steps
Leg distance: 13 miles / 432 miles to Canterbury
Next time … we’re entering the Champagne region. Oh, my ….