At Last - Discovering Jarbidge
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Did I mention that the road from Elko to Jarbidge was steep? very, very steep?
After a long, uneventful, but interesting trip on a circuitous route through high desert, open range, aspen stands and evergreen forest, up and over a mountain pass and down a steep... very, very steep... hairpin-turned, no-guard railed, mountain-clinging, narrow gravel road, we arrived at the Pine Creek Campground in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest about four miles from our intended destination of Jarbidge town. A relaxing evening and a peaceful night’s sleep alongside the Jarbidge River had us up and ready to find Jarbidge the next morning.
It had rained during the night, but only enough to turn the dusty campsite into a muddy one. The morning sun shone brightly, but it was cold and wet. Last night’s rain still dripped from the trees and the 170 step walk to the vault toilet was chilly and required lots of puddle avoidance.
Wildflowers surrounded us in a kaleidoscope of color and it appears we were just in time for the viewing since many of them seemed to be on their way to seed. Indian paintbrush and western asters, monkey flowers, western goldenrod, yarrow and western blue flax all contribute to the natural beauty of the area. Butterflies and bees attracted to the flowers added icing to Nature’s cake. Larger view? Just click on the thumbprints and voila!
Only the river bridges are paved to prevent washout… otherwise, no pavement for 20+ miles
Though Jarbidge is in Nevada which is in the Pacific time zone, Jarbidge is closest to Idaho Falls and residents rely on the Mountain time zone for their appointments and schedules. Hence, we lost an hour on the clock by driving the 3-3/4 miles into town. Once again, we negotiated the rough gravel road from the campground to the signpost pointing us towards Jarbidge. I might add we did find several paved areas... short sections over the bridges were paved to prevent erosion, but no other pavement existed... including the wide main road through Jarbidge, appropriately named Main Street.
Our first thought? Jarbidge really did look like an old western mining town
Our first thought? It really looked like an old western mining town... the kind we’ve seen so many times in the Colorado mountains. The town is situated in a long, narrow canyon at about 6,200’ altitude and the mountains rise up sharply on both sides. Some houses were new construction, some pre-fab, but many looked as if they’d been around awhile, especially the log cabins. Rough, sturdy, weathered buildings that were used to withstanding the types of winters one might expect to see in this area. There were quads, pick-up trucks and ATVs parked in front of most every house. We learned the year round population is now about 27, but in summer the population swells to near 80 with seasonal folk and more when visitors descend upon this tiny town.
A sign in the post office figures population a little differently.
We drove from one end of town to the other... a very short drive... to get a feel for the place. The Trading Post, a general store, was closed. The Red Dog Saloon was closed. A small gift shop that specialized in jams and jellies was open on request only. The Community Center looked closed, but upon reading the bulletin board, it appeared we could get the key to look inside if we wanted. Someone was tinkering at the Volunteer Fire Department. The 2-pump, serve-yourself gas station was idle at the moment. The Outdoor Inn, the local restaurant/bar/hotel/RV park, was open as was Nevada Glassworks, but it was still before noon and nothing much seemed to be going on nor appealed to us strongly enough to stop and explore more.
Checking out an old mine shaft
We didn’t venture inside.
We headed back to camp, stopping along the way to explore an old mining site. Gold mining has started up again in the area, but we saw no active mines where we were. Remnant tailings spilled down the mountainsides, a reminder of days past.
We were content to do some walking and hiking closer to camp. I know we sound like slugs, but after six weeks on the road, sometimes it’s just nice to ‘be’ somewhere and not venture any further. We were all alone in the campground and relished the quiet and peace, with only our own voices and the rush of the river to disturb the blessed silence. It’s idyllic. We read, we wrote, we puttered, we chatted... we guiltlessly frittered away the day.
We busied ourselves next morning with chores to keep warm. It was only 54F when we climbed from Blue at 6AM. You could set your clock by the time the sun clears the mountains to the East (8:30AM) each day and then sinks at day’s end behind those to the West (5PM). It was not until the sun hit the campground that the day began to warm up. David collected and split some wood. I made hot oatmeal for breakfast. Las Vegas was sweltering in the heat and we layered up and kept active to stay warm.
Red columbine… and I didn’t even have to get my feet wet!
A morning walk had us exploring some of the rough, rugged gravel roads that continued on past the campground. Signs warned that the road would get rougher and narrower soon and they weren’t kidding... even the walking was a challenge in spots. About a mile further along, the road unexpectantly passes through the river. It was rushing, cold and deep enough to deter us from wanting to remove our shoes and cross. Bright red columbine on the other side tempted a crossing, but even red columbine could not convince me to tread barefoot into the cold, mountain river water. There are limits to my love of wildflower photography. I later found a columbine close by to photograph which made me feel better about not fording the river.
We returned to camp all warmed up and decided to walk into Jarbidge rather than drive. I’m convinced we see so much more when walking compared to driving, even when the driving is necessarily slow. We entered Jarbidge with walker’s eyes.
We lingered in front of old log cabins, taking in their details. We noticed small signs and stopped at the community park and commented on the number of hummingbirds flitting around.
Main Street- Jarbidge, Nevada
Jarbidge Trading Post…absolutely everything you need!
We started at the Trading Post at the far end of town which was open today. It offered everything you’d expect in a general store/camp store, from fishing bait to propane and cheese-whiz to cupcakes and most everything in between including Jarbidge t-shirts.
The Jarbidge Jail… pretty small and not currently occupied.
The jailhouse was open and we peeked inside. A few famous criminals may have been jailed here through the years, but we imagined it was mostly occupied by rowdy miners who came into town for a Saturday night drunk and got a little out of control.
Eggs and firewood… just put your money in the honesty box.
We continued our walk along Main Street. People waved from their porches and yelled a welcome hi as we passed by. It’s a friendly community and we suspect that nothing goes on that all the neighbors don’t know. Fresh eggs and firewood were for sale… just put your bucks in the honesty box. Good old small town trust!
Dedicated to the Jarbidge Shovel Brigade
A huge shovel... really huge... was mounted next to the Community Park and we wondered about its background. It seems the town was at odds with the US Forest Service back in 2001 over a road that had been blocked off. The town wanted the road open and the Jarbidge Shovel Brigade decided to take things into their own hands. Lawsuits ensued. These Jarbidge folks are an independent lot and don’t back down easily. You can read more about it here.
The Outdoor Inn
The Outdoor Inn, which seems to be the main headquarters for meeting and socializing in town, has been in business for more than half a century... maybe longer. It’s a restaurant, a bar, a hotel and an RV park among other things. We met the owners, Jase and Jane, while sipping on local craft beers. Jase is a native Jarbidgean, born and raised in this tiny town. He went to high school in Reno because Jarbidge’s education system stopped at Grade 8 and actually closed permanently in 2002. He went to college in Idaho, had a lucrative career and then came back to Jarbidge. He bought the Outdoor Inn from its owner of 48 years... and the 2-pump gas station... and the Red Dog Saloon.
Jase’s partner, Jane, is a Brit, a native of Devon, England, but seems quite at home and content in this isolated little town. I asked how she liked winters and she replied without hesitation, ‘They’re wonderful’. They’re both busy managing and handling all that goes on with their multiple businesses, but seemed absolutely happy with the whole situation. The saloon remains closed most of the time simply because they’re too busy to keep it open. You can always get a beer at the Outdoor Inn though.
Jase & Jane, very hospitable hosts in Jarbidge
The Red Dog Saloon
Jane told us the Community Center door was open and we were welcome to visit. There were tables of items for sale... yard sale/thrift shop kind of stuff donated from the locals. You could leave an appropriate donation if you wanted something... the honesty system once again. We looked at old photos and memorabilia of the town. Built in 1910, the Community Center is quite a busy and useful place with several festivities occurring throughout the year on an annual basis... a 4th of July celebration, a Harvest festival and Jarbidge Days among others.
Jarbidge Community Center built in 1910 still serves as a community center today.
Inside the Community Center - thrift shop, old photos and town mementos
We stopped at the Nevada Glassworks where Danny Sullivan was hard at work. His glass work is beautiful... some blown glass and several pieces of fused glasswork. A former consultant for Oracle, he’s traveled the world and enjoyed glasswork as a hobby and now it’s what he does full time. He set up shop in Jarbidge a couple of years ago and is now a full time resident.
Danny Sullivan of Nevada Glassworks
Nevada Glassworks offerings were colorful, imaginative and absolutely gorgeous.
We couldn’t resist some of his original work and told him we’d return the next day to make a purchase. We could tell when he smiled that he wasn’t holding his breath for our return. We figured we’d surprise him by keeping our word.
We walked back to camp and thought how wonderful it would be to spend a summer season here. Then, on second thought, contemplated how we’d like being in the same place for an entire season. Maybe... maybe not. We’re nomads at heart.
Later in the afternoon, our quiet, peaceful, all-to-ourselves campground became a frenetic, loud, crowded place as weekend campers moved in with their off road vehicles and generators. Kids raced around the campground road on ATVs and dirt bikes, raising both the dust and decibel level to extremes. We have to keep reminding ourselves that these national forest campgrounds are not just for us. They’re to be shared by all... even those who have interests counter to ours. It’s hard being a reasonable old fart sometimes.
Yup, it’s a mining town!
It was time to leave the Jarbidge Wildnerness and this quaint little mining town. We packed up and headed into town. We made good on our promise to Danny and bought some of his glass. We found Jase and Jane and said goodbye and headed out of town on the gravel road en route to Twin Falls and points north. I think we’ll come back here some day. It’s worth the effort.
Join us next time as we head north and seek a little altitude to avoid the sweltering summer heat.