Let’s Go to Kokomo
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A colorful welcome to Kokomo
When we were considering options for a rest day, we initially didn’t know where we wanted to go. We saw a sign for Kokomo, I did a little research, and the decision was made. “Kokomo… that’s where we want to go… we’ll get there fast and then we’ll take it slow.” We’d never been to Kokomo, Indiana before, but once we started singing the Beach Boys’ song, there was no turning back.
A small city of about 58,000 people, Kokomo is located in north central Indiana and, according to several sources, named after a Native American man of the Miami tribe who lived in northern Indiana in the early 19th century. It was not too far from our GART cycling route and represented all-new territory for us. I researched a bit in advance to figure out what we could see and do there and found just enough to keep us occupied for a day.
Our first foray was to Highland Park, Kokomo’s oldest park, established after a 15-acre land purchase in 1892. It’s a lovely, spacious, welcoming place and among its many amenities, it has not two, but three Atlas Obscura sights. Pretty impressive.
First, we visited Old Ben, the “world’s largest steer”. According to an article in the Kokomo Tribune, Ben was actually born and raised in Miami County on the farm of Mike and John Murphy. He became a celebrity of sorts, appearing in his own private tent at county and state fairs because of his size. Weighing 125 pounds at birth, he gained ~100 pounds a month, and eventually grew to weigh between 4,585 and 4,720 pounds and measured 6 ½ feet tall. His demise came about after he slipped and fell on some ice, breaking his leg. After his death, he was sent to a taxidermist in New York. Accounts vary on whether he was sold or donated to the city, but the steer has been a subject of curiosity for all to see in the park ever since. He stands behind plate glass in a pavilion where we visited him. He seemed quite content.
Big old Sycamore stump
Next door to Old Ben, in another glass-plated pavilion we found the Sycamore Stump. The stump was located west of Kokomo along the north bank of Wildcat Creek. According to those who remember the tree, it stood 100 feet high before storms brought it down. The tree has been measured to be 57 feet in circumference at its base. It’s considered Indiana’s largest tree and is estimated to be somewhere between 400-1500 years old. It’s hard to tell because its interior rings have rotted away. Nonetheless, the stump is on display and we checked it out. Looked like a big stump. Moving the stump to Highland Park in 1916 was quite a feat.
From the Kokomo Tribune… Moving the Sycamore Stump must have been quite a chore!
A short walk away we came upon the Vermont Covered Bridge and we pondered why a covered bridge from Vermont would be on display in Kokomo, Indiana. The mystery was soon solved. The Vermont Covered Bridge is another Kokomo transplant but not from the state of Vermont, but rather from the town of Vermont, located about 5 miles east of Kokomo. The bridge is the final remaining Smith Type No. 3 Trusses in Indiana and was moved to Highland Park in 1957 after it was removed from the Old Strawtown Pike – the oldest road in Howard County.
Enough Roadside Americana finds, we walked over to the Elwood Haynes Museum which is at the far end of the park. The museum is housed in the Haynes family home, donated to the city of Kokomo by Hayne’s daughter, Bernice, in 1965.
Whenever we visit a small museum like this, it’s always a toss-up as to whether it’ll be worth our time. No need to worry this time. This museum is a gem. It’s well laid out in a splendid old, well-preserved home and is a tribute to his life and many accomplishments. We figured we’d spend 30 minutes or so looking around and when we walked out two hours later, we were amazed.
David blogged about the genius of Elwood Haynes in his last blog, but I absolutely loved the house itself. I appreciated all the built-in cabinets and fine woodworking, the spacious layout, the graceful arches, the old photos, and the period furnishings. Al Taylor, the museum curator, was an outstanding guide, providing lots of insight and interesting tidbits which really added to our appreciation of the museum and the man for whom it is named.
Exhausted from our Kokomo adventure and in dire need of sustenance and beverage, we ended the day at the Half Moon Brewery and Restaurant. Turkey Reubens and cold draft craft beer were a perfect ending to a fun day.
Tomorrow, we’re back to riding in Indiana on the Nickel Plate Trail. Join us… no helmet or special attire required.