North to Alaska - Bighorn Sheep, Wild Horses and Aliens
/Day 3 - Bighorn Sheep and Aliens
Part of the reason for camping so close to home the first couple of nights was to determine if anything major was going to be a problem. If so, we were close enough to home to fix it. So far, one USB port was not working and a drawer needed adjusting. All good… we felt we could now head out in earnest.
We woke early with the sun to the sound of chirping birds. The walk to Atlatl Rock was just under a mile and after nursing a cup of coffee, we walked over and then climbed the steep stairs for a close up view of the petroglyphs etched in the rock varnish and a panoramic view of the area below. An atlatl, by the way, is an early Native American tool… a spear chucker, a precursor to the bow and arrow.
Miriam, the mousekin that’s been traveling with us since she found us in Taos a couple of years ago, is with us again on this trip. Previously, we noted that she wanders off and gets lost frequently, so we’ve mostly kept her in her little cubby on the dash, reluctant to let her out. However, since we planned to walk the 3/4 mile in and out Mouse’s Tank Trail, it seemed only right that she should tag along. She managed to stay out of trouble.
Desert bighorn sheep have long inhabited this rocky valley as evidenced by the ancient petroglyphs. We spotted a flock making its way across a rocky face high above us. By the time we finished our walk, they had descended, crossed the road and were heading straight for us. We waited patiently for a good view of the spring lambs.
We left the park by 10am and began our drive to Tonopah, about 250 miles west-northwest. We stopped in nearby Overton to gas up and post a blog compliments of McDonald’s free Wi-Fi and then we were off. We’re slow travelers by choice. We prefer to stop frequently to stretch and walk rather than make big miles each day, so when we had the chance to drive along NV-375, aka the Extraterrestrial Highway, and stop for lunch in Rachel at the world-famous Little Ale’Inn, we stopped.
It’s an odd little place with lots of Area 51 and alien kitsch for sale… from license plates to alien-themed quilts and little green men. Dollar bills hang above the bar, some of which have probably been there since the restaurant opened 38 years ago. The menu is simple and somewhat overpriced, but hey, you gotta pay extra for alien ambiance.
Outside is actually more interesting than inside with a friendly alien welcoming you on arrival and the flying saucer he flew in on hanging from a crane.
A quick, expensive lunch, a walk around the parking lot and we were off again bound for Tonopah. As we gained altitude, we watched the temperature drop. We’d be camping at 6,200’ so it was going to be a chilly night. The wind was howling and the weather forecast indicated more of the same for the next few days. If only we were still on Nine of Cups… not!
We stopped briefly in Tonopah to buy a few groceries and gas up again. Our destination was Miller’s Rest Area, a free overnight parking area with relatively clean flush toilets, fresh water and plenty of room. Blanche fits in a regular parking space, but there was room for big rigs and semis as well. We thought the highway traffic would be a problem, but as it turned out, after about 10pm, there really wasn’t much traffic noise at all and we had a restful night despite wind and cold temperatures.
Miller’s Rest Area, by the way, was built in 1904 as a railroad station and watering stop for the Tonopah & Goldfield Railroad which transported ore during the boomtown years of mining in the area. All signs of the railroad are gone now, but the ‘station’ area has been put to good use.
Day 4 - Warm & Cozy at Washoe Lake State Park
When we awakened in the morning, the temperature was 37F… Brrr! The good news is we had the chance to try out the new diesel heater David just installed and it works like a charm! Sipping hot coffee and reading the news snuggling under the blankets while Blanche warmed up was wonderful.
We traversed miles and miles of flat, drab nothingness. Vast expanses of arid land, blanched white alkali flats stretched before us with nary a plant nor shrub to disturb the tedium. Looming in the distance, we could barely see the snow-covered Sierras.
Little towns… Mina, Luning… cropped up along the way. A small population of hardy, independent souls still live here. Tired, sullen places that once bustled during the heyday of the mining era. Remnants of old mine shafts still remained as sad reminders of the town’s former self.
We passed an Army depot in Hawthorne which boasts 2427 earthen artillery storage bunkers. It claims to be the World’s Largest Depot and stores reserve munitions that can be used in the first 30 days of any major conflict for the US. The bunkers cover 600,000 sq ft of the 226 sq mile installation and were easily seen from the road as we drove by.
When these guys pulled up next to us, we took a second look. An interesting RV configuration towing not only a dinghy Smart car, but a helicopter and bicycle as well. So how many forms of transport does one family need?
In the little town of Yerington, we found a DIY car wash and gave Blanche a much-needed bath. And then, of course, it rained… thundered… lightninged… and hailed. Serves us right.
About 30 miles east of Carson City, Nevada’s state capital, we turned onto US-50 dubbed The Loneliest Road. We’ve driven this road east before and it’s an interesting ride, but it’s definitely not lonely in this area.
We passed right through Carson City and headed directly to Washoe Lake State Park. Once again, our Nevada State Park Pass was put to use for free entrance and camping at the park.
There were several RVs in the full hook-up area of the campground, but on the non-electric side, we had our choice of sites and found a primo one (#35) with a picnic table, fire ring, covered picnic table and close to the ablution block and fresh water spigot.
After a brisk walk around the campground to get our bearings (and our daily steps), we opted for popcorn for dinner, popped in our new little microwave which also works like a charm. So far, all of the improvements David has made have been excellent and most appreciated.
Darkness fell and so did the temperature. We hunkered down for another very cold windy night.
Day 5 - Living with the brrr!
Another cold and blustery night. We prefer sleeping in the cold snuggled under the blankets, but in the morning, we like warm. The temperature outside this morning was 36F and 49F inside Blanche. The new heater had us toasty and warm at 68F within 15 minutes. Perfect!
A morning walk, a drive downtown to the Carson City Library for Wi-Fi. En route to the library, we chanced upon this sculpture entitled ‘Inside the mind of Leonardo da Vinci’ by Mitchell Riley laying on the front lawn of the Community Center. It appears the back of the sculpture is hollowed out and da Vinci’s innovative and imaginative drawings and sketches are on the inside walls. Clever!
On the way back, we spent a few minutes watching the herd of wild horses grazing near the park… that was the extent of our day’s adventure.
During a brief lull in the wind, we cooked up a big pot of chili con carne for dinner outside on the propane stove. We offered some to an elderly lady that was parked in a nearby handicapped campsite. She’d already been given dinner by another camper, she said, but thanked us. We suspect she is homeless and living in her car. For the two days we were there, she was always sitting in the driver’s seat of her car, all bundled up and reading a book. There but for fortune.
Tomorrow, we head out over the Sierras into California. We’ve reserved a campsite at Sycamore Grove Campground in the Mendocino National Forest near Red Bluff. It’s at an altitude of about 300’ near the Sacramento River. We’re hoping it’ll be a little warmer. Don’t put away your winter coats yet, just in case.