Nova Scotia - Exploring Digby Neck
/After discovering we could drive along Digby Neck, I browsed through the many brochures we’d picked up along the way and found one specific to Digby Neck. It was only then we figured out that we could take a free ferry to Long Island and another free ferry to Brier Island. The brochure not only had a detailed map, a description of places to see along the route and trails to walk, but it also had the ferry schedules. We were off!
We discovered we could drive all the way to Brier Island with a couple ferry rides involved.
Our first stop on the Neck was Point Prim and its red and white vertically striped lighthouse. Two other lighthouses have stood on this headland, but this particular one is still operational and relatively new, built in 1964. Since we arrived early, nothing was open, but that suited us just fine. We wandered around the grounds reading the info signs, then ventured below the lighthouse to take in the views and check out the flora and fauna.
Our first stop on the Neck was Point Prim and its red and white vertically striped lighthouse.
We scrambled over enormous boulders, their edges worn smooth by the sea. Seaside peas and seaside goldenrod poked up between the rocks adding patches of color to the dark gray granite. Cormorants, gulls and ducks plied the water for their breakfasts.
We proceeded along the Neck passing through small fishing communities and public beaches. At the very west end of the Neck we came to the town of East Ferry where we lined up for the 5-minute ferry ride across Petit Passage to Tiverton on Long Island. We could see the Boar’s Head Light across the Passage.
We saw the signs for Balancing Rock, but passed it up in order to make the next ferry. Only a 10 mile ride down the length of the island, we were just in time to board yet another free ferry for the 7-minute ride across Grand Passage to Brier Island’s only community, Westport.
A colorful collection of Lobster buoys
There was plenty to keep us busy on Brier Island. We headed first to the Joshua Slocum Monument. Slocum, a native Nova Scotian, grew up on Brier Island. He was the first person to complete a single-handed circumnavigation of the world (1895-1898) and he’s one of our sailing heroes. We’ve read his enthralling memoir, Sailing Alone Around the World, many times and it only seemed right to pay homage to him first. We followed a narrow grassy path lined with flowering fireweed to the simple monument.
A tribute to Joshua Slocum who grew up on Brier Island.
Slocum, the first person to single-handedly sail around the world has always been one of our heroes.
The monument on the southeast end of the island lies opposite little Peter’s Island. We watched as dense fog slowly crept in totally obscuring the island and its lighthouse ~300’ (100m) away. By the time we breakfasted in Blanche, the fog had lifted and our view was much improved.
Seabird cries, mostly gulls and cormorants, created a cacophony of sound as they dove in the swirling incoming tidal waters for fish.
So many birds
You never know when or where a sea monster might appear!
The island is small, ~4 miles x 2miles (7km x 3 km), so traveling from one end to the other is quick and easy. We drove to the opposite end of the island, North Point, to view the Northern Light. It’s a light, alarm and Coast Guard Station, but not particularly handsome.
Northern Light on Brier Island
Nearby, the Seal Cove Trail, ~1.5 miles roundtrip, led to a vantage point for viewing an offshore seal colony. The trail was up and down, rough in spots, over roots and down into muddy gulleys. Pink and white wild rose bushes lined the path.
We could hear the seals barking long before we spotted them resting on the rocks. Grey seals and harbour seals mingled beside each other. Note that harbour seals have spotted pelage (fur) and grey seals are primarily dark grey.
Harbor seals and grey seals lazed on the rocks.
We retraced our route back into Westport and checked out the General Store which sells everything from gas to fire insurance to fishing gear to Twinkies and everything in between.
The General Store has it all. It's the only store on the island.
Westport at low tide
A rough, gravel road led out to Western Light. It was windy and overcast and it started to sprinkle as we walked across the boggy ground. Seagulls and cormorants were circling and resting on tufts of grass.
Western Light on Brier Island
Back in Westport, we were just in time for the ferry back to Long Island.
Back on the ferry to cross the Grand Passage.
This time through we stopped at Balancing Rock for a hike.
The 2.1 mile (3.4km) trail meanders through woods and bog to the south coast of Long Island.
A long boardwalk extends over the soggy parts of the trail. It’s lined with skunk cabbage (not so cool) but also lesser purple-fringed orchids (very cool!).
A boardwalk extends over the boggy areas
Lesser purple-fringed orchids
At the end of the trail, we descended 253 very steep wooden steps to a cliffside observation deck to view Balancing Rock, a 20+ ton, 20+ foot high column of basalt ‘balanced precariously on a ledge above the waves of St. Mary’s Bay’.
Ta da! Balancing Rock.
We caught the Petit Passage ferry back to Digby Neck and, tired after a very full day, found a secluded spot in the Digby Walmart parking lot for the evening. Walmart provided a roaster and potato salad for dinner in Blanche while we planned our subsequent days in Nova Scotia.
Join us next time as we continue along the Nova Scotia coast to Digby, known for its scallops, and Yarmouth, known for its ‘apple core’ lighthouse.
At the end of the trail, we descended 253 very steep wooden steps to a cliff side observation deck to view Balancing Rock, a 20+ ton, 20+ foot high column of basalt ‘balanced precariously on a ledge above the waves of St. Mary’s Bay’.
We caught the Petit Passage ferry back to Digby Neck and, tired after a very full day, found a secluded spot in the Digby Walmart parking lot for the evening. Walmart provided a roaster and potato salad for dinner in Blanche while we planned our subsequent days in Nova Scotia.
Join us next time as we continue along the Nova Scotia coast to Digby, known for its scallops, and Yarmouth, known for its ‘apple core’ lighthouse.