Newfoundland - Port au Choix

We retraced our route heading south on the Viking Trail (Route 430S). En route, we spied an iceberg floating offshore in the Strait. We maneuvered our way closer to shore heading to the little fishing village of Noddy Bay for a closer look.

Not one, but two icebergs floated past as we watched from Noddy Bay.

Noddy Bay was a very picturesque little fishing village.

On our return to the main road, we saw the Dark Tickle shop. We’d seen Dark Tickle jams, jellies and teas in lots of shops and decided to stop when we saw their homemade ice cream sign. We tried two local flavors… bake apple and partridge berry. Both were good, but our standard choices of maple walnut for me and ‘the more chocolate the better’ for David would have been better. Another Newfoundland-ism: tickle is a very narrow salt water inlet. There were several ‘tickles’ on the island.

An observation here… Though we know that dandelions are ubiquitous, we have never seen so many in our lives. Whole fields thick with yellow weed megablooms… shin-high and knee-high lawns totally ‘dandied’.

Dandelion greens? Dandelion wine, anyone?

Another observation: Peat gardens are common and due to the rich soil, thrive all along the roadsides. Evidently, as long as you can keep the critters from eating what is growing, these roadside gardens are very productive.

After we passed St. Barbe, the ferry terminal, we were in new territory. Port au Choix is a Canadian National Historic Site located on a small peninsula on the west coast of the Great Northern Peninsula.

It is particularly noted as one of the richest archeological finds in North America. Most prehistoric coastlines have been submerged under the ocean, but because this site is high above the ocean and the soil is naturally alkaline due to limestone, the site has been extremely well-preserved.

Limestone Barrens at Port au Choix National Historic Site Photo credit: Jennifer Bains

Per the historic site webpage, “it [the site] includes a large cemetery that consisted of exceptionally rich and well-preserved remains of the Maritime Archaic culture whose people buried their dead in this place, located on what was, at the time, an island, from about 4,400 to 3,300 years ago; the site included a major settlement location… occupied by two Palaeo-Eskimo cultures, Groswater (2,800-1,900 BCE) and Dorset (2,000-1,300 BCE); and, the exceptionally well-preserved remains of tools, weapons and discarded food bones from this settlement provide a new appreciation of the material and intellectual cultures of the Palaeo-Eskimo people.” It is believed that the Maritime Archaic people were the first to inhabit Newfoundland. Based on what archeologists have found, this area is the crossroads of 6000 years of cultures. A pretty impressive find.

A replica Dorset hut was on display in the Visitor Center along with tools and replica artifacts found at the archeological dig site.

A replica of the type of dwelling constructed by the Dorset People showed a unique design.

The day was cold and the wind was ‘blowing like snot’ outside. Walking outside and even opening Blanche’s doors was a challenge. Hiking was not an option on this barren, flat cliff top, but we continued driving down the road to take in a view of the Pointe Riche Lighthouse situated on the point.

En route, we were treated to a Newfoundland traffic jam… scruffy-looking caribou (reindeer) shedding their winter fur, crowded onto the road. They seemed in no particular hurry. In fact, one of the males took a few minutes to scratch himself on the hood of one of the stopped cars.

Newfie Traffic Jam

Caribou cow and calf. The cow looks scruffy because she’s shedding her winter coat.

We proceeded to the lighthouse. Built in 1892, the Point Riche Light is still active. The white wooden tower is octagonal pyramidal in shape, the lantern room is painted red.

Point Riche Lighthouse

Near the lighthouse is an artist’s conception of a Dorset hut entryway nicknamed the “Dorset Doorway” overlooking the Strait.

The Dorset Doorway

This area is also known as a ‘limestone barren’ and it provides the habitat for several endemic plants which unfortunately we did not see. What we did see, however, were yellow lady slippers… lots of big huge clusters of them. Beautiful!

Huge clusters of yellow ladyslippers

As we left the park site and resumed our trek south, a hillside of Dame’s rocket was particularly stunning.

There was much more to see in the area and on a less gusty day, we might have explored further. Instead, we opted to stop for lunch at the local Anchor Cafe for seafood chowder (mediocre) and our first Iceberg beer, “brewed with pure 20,000 year-old iceberg” (pretty cool!).

Next time, join us at Gros Morne National Park. It’s spectacular!