Days 1 & 2 - Valley of Fire

We got a late start with last minute errands… gas fill-up, a quick birthday bouquet drop-off for an old friend, an Amazon return… and finally we were heading out of town a little after noon, but quite content to be unhurried and on the road.

It was hot and dry with a scorching southerly wind whipping up dust and pollen. We wanted an easy first day and settled on our favorite state park, Valley of Fire, ~60 miles northeast of Las Vegas. We avoided the interstate and took the scenic route through Lake Las Vegas and along Northshore Road.

Valley of Fire, Nevada’s first and largest state park, is a gem with a rugged landscape of surreal red sandstone rock formations jutting out of the red desert sands. The park gets its name from the red sandstone, once sand dunes, that seem to be ablaze in the golden hour before sunset. Even after having been here at least a dozen or more times, there was still more to see and since we’d never camped here before, it’d be a new adventure.

We made use of our Nevada State Parks Senior Pass. At a bargain price of $30/year, it entitles us to free entry into any Nevada state park as well as free camping - plus we get to support our state park system. Win-win-win. The Atlatl Campground was busy but we easily found a lovely spot nestled in a niche under a humongous sandstone outcropping. The location provided shade and some protection from the gusty winds. We watched dust devils swirling and twirling in the near distance as the wind howled.

Desert flowers were in bloom. It wasn’t a California or Arizona super bloom by any means, but it was lovely all the same. Deep purple Fremont indigo, bright orange desert globe mallow, yellow brittlebrush and spiny golden bush. Clusters of delicate white dune primrose dotted the pink desert sand, it’s flowers facing the morning sun and wilting to pink in the heat of late afternoon.

We’d grilled chicken and made a potato salad to take with us, so dinner was as easy as the rest of the day. We sat in the cool of the desert evening enjoying the freedom of travel.

Day 2 - Hiking in the Valley of Fire

It cooled off significantly during the night and by early morning, we were both snuggled under the sheet and comforter. It was easy to get back into the morning coffee routine, but without internet, there was no morning paper to read. We planned our day instead. There were multiple trails of interest and we chose a couple to hike. None were overly strenuous, but we wanted to make sure we walked earlier in the day to avoid the afternoon heat that was predicted.

The 1.1 mile White Domes Loop Trail was first. Access was past the Visitor Center and 5.5 miles along the winding White Domes Road through some of the most dramatic, panoramic views within the park. Marked as moderate, negotiating the initial descent down the rocky trail into a valley was a bit tricky, but I found the hardest part to be trudging through the desert sand. It’s hard on the legs, especially when you’re transporting half the desert sand in your shoes.

Wonder why they call it White Domes? Once we saw them, we knew immediately. Contrasting with the vibrant red of the sandstone, the white limestone of the domes was stunning. The trail boasts the remains of a movie set from the 1965 movie “The Professionals” (never heard of it, have you?). In total, more than 45 movies have been filmed in the Valley of Fire including ‘Star Trek Generations’ and ‘Electric Horseman’.

The trail through the park’s longest slot canyon was narrow, but we relished the shady cool it provided being out of the sun.

We completed the trail without misstep and after a granola bar and drink under a ramada, we headed to the Firewave Trail. Millennia ago, this whole area used to be under a great inland sea and the resulting rock formations definitely do look wavelike. The trail is not very long, but connects to the Seven Wonders Trail which completes the loop.

Marked as moderately strenuous, there were some tight areas where we had to duck to get through and some climbing and descending, but once again, trudging through the deep sand was the most tiring. Additionally, by noon, the temperature had heated up to mid-80s and walking in the sun sapped our energy. We were pleased when we realized we were in the final leg of the trail and spotted Blanche waiting patiently for us.

Enough sun… enough hiking for the day. We stopped at the Visitor Center to check out the displays and pick up a wildflower brochure to identify some of the flowers I wasn’t sure of. Kudos to Jody, the ranger on duty, who was knowledgeable, enthusiastic and very helpful and provided me with an awesome Quick Plant Guide for the park.

We returned to the campground, had lunch and took a relaxing nap. Despite the heat, the roof fan and our personal fans kept us reasonably comfortable. Dinner was leftover grilled chicken, salad, and fresh watermelon. We chatted, looked at the day’s pix, wrote blogs and before we knew it, the sun was sinking and the evening cooled.

Tomorrow… we’re off to Tonapah via the Extraterrestrial Highway near the mysterious Area 51. It’s only ~250 miles away affording us a chance to hike in the morning and meander along the way.