Fogo Island - A Great Auk & One Corner of the Flat Earth
/“Fogo Island is not so much a place as a state of mind.”
A little background… In 2007, David and I were in Cape Town, South Africa with Nine of Cups berthed at the Royal Cape Yacht Club. We met Fraser and her husband who were also sailors and they hailed from Squid Tickle, Newfoundland. We shared Christmas with them that year and Fraser cat-sat Jelly for us when we headed off to explore more of South Africa. We kept in touch infrequently over the years, the usual holiday greetings kind of thing. Her Christmas note this past year indicated she was living on Fogo Island. Since we were going to be in Newfoundland, I thought I’d send her a note to see if we could get together after all these years. I’m so glad I did.
Fogo island is the largest of Newfoundland’s offshore islands. We had to find it on the Newfoundland map to figure out exactly where it was. We discovered it was only accessible by ferry, which made it even more alluring. It became even more compelling when we learned it was also the location of one of the four corners of the Flat Earth. Yikes… what an opportunity!
We made our way to Farewell Harbour, the ferry terminal for the Fogo Island Ferry. We were late arriving, but so was the ferry so we were able to board by 2:00 pm.
While we waited in line to board, we spotted two lobstermen close to shore. We watched as they hauled up their traps and checked the contents, sorting keepers vs. throwbacks. We chatted with them when they tied up at the tiny wharf. Friendly and chatty, they showed us one of the big guys.
The ferry fare was $22.25 RT for us and Blanche… quite the deal. The 8-mile (13km) trip took about 45 minutes. The queue was long, but we boarded quickly. Blanche was tucked snugly into a corner at the front and we could see keep an eye on her from the passenger observation deck above.
The ferry crossing… Fogo Island Ahead
Fraser had given me their address on Barr’d Islands and we headed straight there. The drive there was absolutely astounding. Rugged, rocky shoreline… brightly colored clapboard houses, fishing boats tied at the docks. Eye candy was everywhere.
The island has always been a fishing community with a long maritime history. Even before the Europeans landed, native people fished here in the rich North Atlantic waters. Archeological studies done on the island indicate the Beothuk people lived here long ago. According to Wiki, “Fogo Island is one of the oldest named features on the coast of Newfoundland. The Bertius map from 1606 shows Fogo Island as one of only about a dozen important features around the coast of Newfoundland.”
The fishing industry has been struggling for the past few years. A thriving art community has evolved that has significantly contributed to the island’s economy and tourism. Fraser’s partner, Lee, is an accomplished potter and Fraser claims she is learning, but based on the work we saw, she’s well beyond the learning phase. We visited their Saltfire Pottery Gallery first before heading next door to their home.
This photo taken from their YouTube… check it out.
Located on a point overlooking the Atlantic with clear views of the over-the-top Fogo Island Inn (a minimum stay of 3 nights required at $4075/night), we had tea, talked, laughed and caught up. It was a delightful reunion… as if those 17 years since we’d seen each other didn’t exist. Fraser, by the way, prefers to think of the Fogo Island Inn as having a good view of their house as opposed to vice versa!
Fraser and Lee’s comfy living room with a view of the Fogo Island Inn (2nd window from right)
Closer view of the Fogo Island Inn
Late in the afternoon, we all headed out on the Great Auk Trail at nearby Etheridge Point Park accompanied by Jack Sparrow aka Jacks, their golden doodle, a hundred pounds of love and energy. The ride to Etheridge Point itself was an eye stunner.
The scenery Heading to Etheridge Point was stupendous.
The 3-mile (4.6km) long roundtrip Joe Batt’s Point Trail is an awesome island walk.
Jacks ran in front of us and around us on the trail urging us along. He’d dart into the water and bark for Lee to throw stones so he could retrieve them. He rarely retrieved the same stone that Lee threw and the ones he did retrieve, he refused to give back.
Fraser, Lee & Jack Sparrow
We followed a sea cliff footpath up and down above the rugged coastline. It’s a fairly easy walking path with some stairs and a few steeper sections. Wildflowers were in bloom and the bluebells and purple pitcher plants were especially stunning against the rocky backdrop.
The reward at the end of the trail was a cast-bronze statue of a great auk by American artist Todd McGrain. The great auk, a flightless bird that became extinct in the mid-19th century, used to thrive on these North Atlantic rocky shores. Natives used them as a food resource and hunted them judiciously. European fishermen used them for food and bait, but the biggest market was for their feathers back in Europe. The great auks were killed indiscriminately until their extinction.
David, Marcie and the Great Auk of Fogo Island Photo Credit: Fraser Carpenter
We returned home with Fraser and Lee for a pick-up supper. We contributed some Brie cheese and leftover vegan chili. Fraser pulled out all the stops with local crab meat, pasta and an unbelievable assortment of cheeses, crackers, olives and more. And, of course, we drank Fogo wine!
Being a sailor herself, Fraser was quick to offer showers and laundry access which, we of course, readily accepted. We spent the night parked in their driveway facing the sea. In the morning, after coffee together, we gave our thanks and bid our adieus. We were headed to Brimstone Head, to view one of the four corners of the Flat Earth.
We were a bit disappointed to learn that the Canadian Flat Earth Society Museum in Seldom, Fogo Island was closed, but we quickly forgot our disappointment as we hiked up the Brimstone Head Trail.
Brimstone Head.… a whopping 338 feet (103m) above sea level
A rather steep climb, it’s still a fairly easy path with sturdy wooden stairs and railings most all the way.
A platform at the top announced our arrival at the top and one of the four corners of the Flat Earth. The path is ~3/4 mile long (1.12 km) took less than 20 minutes to climb even with stops for oohing, aaahhing and photos.
tHE SIGN SAID WE’D ARRIVED AT ONE OF THE FOUR CORNERS OF THE fLAT eARTH. wE TRUST IT WAS RIGHT.
sTANDING ON THE cORNER OF bRIMSTONE hEAD AND THE FLAT EARTH.
The views along the way were once again phenomenal.
We scampered back down (actually we walked briskly, but carefully now that I think about it). All too soon, it was time to catch the ferry from Fogo Island back to Newfoundland.
This is our route to Fogo Island
Next time, we head to Newfoundland & Labrador’s provincial capital, St. John’s. Join us. There’s lots to see and do.