Day 13 - Rondondela to Pontevedra

This was a tough day. It was cold, damp and overcast when we set out just after 0700. Rain threatened all day so we trudged along expectantly, our rain gear at ready, though we only felt a few drops throughout the day. It was the combination of very steep ascents and descents in the towns as well as over rocky, heavily rooted terrain that tired us out. It also ended up being our longest walking day of 16.5 miles.

Beyond Camino sights, there are always things that catch our attention. Leaving our little apartment this morning, we noticed that several doors had fresh baguettes in bread bags just waiting for their owners to claim them for morning breakfast.

We were out of the town and into the forest in no time. I noticed a swing and thought I’d take a quick ride until I noticed that the top knots were a bit frayed and the drop off behind me would have made for a rough landing.

Pilgrim shrines are common along the path and the closer we get to Santiago, the more frequent they are.

A big river? Actually this is the Verdugo River as it enters the Vigo Estuary and the Atlantic. It’s considered one of Europe’s main ports and a fishing capital noted among other things for its Vigo mussels.

As we descended into the village, we caught sight of Ponte Sampaio, 274 foot-long (144m) stone bridge. Though originally built by the Romans, the current structure is considered primarily medieval. Historically, the bridge is significant for the Battle of Ponte Sampaio when in 1809, Spanish forces defeated French troops which ended the French occupation of Galicia.

As soon as we crossed the bridge, the steep ascents began up into the hills and back into the forest.

A bit of a welcome surprise when we encountered a pop-up cafe in the middle of the forest after one particularly steep climb.

Hay bales were set up for seating and tables. A generator had to be switched on whenever coffee was being served. We settled for fresh fruit and a welcome sit-down.

A portion of the path was a bit eerie… dark, marshy, mossy and wet, reminding us of tromping through parts of the U.S. southeast.

We were greeted at the end of the path with a colorful Camino mural (complete with non-Camino graffiti).

The final leg of this section meandered along a canal. The footpath narrowed significantly in some sections.

Tired and hungry, we finally arrived in Pontevedra. Our hotel was a non-descript kind of place with a pleasant enough innkeeper, a clean room and a hot shower. We found a nearby Aldis to purchase bread, cheese and beer and called it a night. We find that these old pilgrims are not very energetic at the end of the walking day.

Still no blisters nor any major complaints. Though we’re tired at day’s end, it’s a good tired.

We’re nearing Santiago… only four more days to go and under 50 miles. We’re itchy to get there. Join us next time as we continue through Caldas de Reis, Padrón and Raices… nearer and nearer to our Camino goal.