Day 9 - The Hardest Day - Ponte de Lima to Rubiães

We scheduled our layday in Ponte de Lima partly because we knew what was coming next. The path is neither harder nor easier than we imagined. It is what it is. Some parts are magic and some parts are downright misery. Today, however, was the hardest, most challenging  day we’ve experienced thus far… misery climbing, magic once we reached the top.

We left our cozy apartment and rejoined the Camino once again. We passed by Manuel’s shop and he cheerfully stamped our passports, then reminded David to add two to the number of pilgrims that had passed by his shop.

Within in a short distance we were walking a narrow cement path along side a canal. At times, the path narrowed so that a misstep would have caused a dunking, but we managed to stay on the path. At one point, the path disappeared and we crossed the canal by hopping over stones.

We were prepared for the steep ascent. We’d read about it and David had downloaded an altitude profile, but actually walking it was far more difficult than anticipating it. The hill (it seemed more like a mountain) is known as Serra da Labruja. The highest point on the climb is known as Alto da Portela Grande which reaches an altitude of approximately 405–440 meters (1,329-1,444 feet). It’s a steep, steep climb on rocky, uneven paths before a steep descent into Rubaies. Pilgrims just call it ‘the big hill’.

We climbed up, up, up and more up on a dry-ish riverbed route. Had it been raining, it would have been hazardous to maneuver… muddy and slippery. As we breathed a sigh of relief finishing one section, we were confronted with the section which appeared even steeper and more difficult.

Even though it was dry, rocks, uneven ground, big roots, and sheer elevation gain thwarted every step. Our leg muscles burned. Our lungs ached and we slogged on. We didn’t see one pilgrim who gave up. We were slow. It was always one step after another. Take a breath… take a rest if you need to… take another step. The pictures don’t do it justice. Trust us… it was a challenge.

When we finally reached the top where large vertical timbers arranged in an arc was the acknowledged  ‘monument’ . We took the requisite selfie photo and began the long, steep descent to Rubaies.

The road was once again uneven, rocky and root-bound. The going was slow and hard on the knees and ankles,  but we managed. You think we’re slow? What about this guy?

It was definitely a day of varying terrains. Intense climb and descent, under highways, up other smaller hills, then down again, along dirt roads and through a vineyard. It was definitely a day of varying terrain.

We finally arrived at our lodging for the night, Pensão Repouso do Peregrino, and it was a gem. The rooms were small, but comfortable and clean.

Most importantly, there was a large area of clotheslines which allowed us to hand wash all of clothes, hang them out and have them dry in just a couple of hours. Sheer luxury!

A local restaurant supplied a minivan to transport several guests to the Bom Retiro Cafe. The place was a madhouse since all the local albergues and guest houses recommended this spot. Quite honestly, we don’t remember what we ate, what we drank, or even if we enjoyed it. We were so tired after the day, the thoughts of clean clothes and hitting the sack were tantamount on our minds. It didn’t take long to nod off once we got back to our room.

A long day, a hard day, but a good day on the Camino.

More up and down next time, but the hardest day is behind us now. Join us as we walk just a little further and cross the border into Spain!