Day 17 - We're in Santiago de Compostela
/In the morning, we retraced our steps from Casa de Cruceiro back to the Camino and walked the last few miles of the Camino Portugues to Santiago de Compostela. We ascended a hill along the highway, wended our way through a wooded park, and finally caught a view of misty Santiago in the distance.
Santiago in the distance
We followed the last of the yellow arrows and scallop shell markers to the Cathedral, then threaded our way through crowds of pilgrims who had plopped down on the ground in the immense Plaza del Obradoiro facing the Cathedral.
We had arrived at the traditional endpoint of the Camino de Santiago. Tired, a bit worse for the wear, still snuffling from our colds, but we made it!
Traditionally, pilgrims would burn their clothes at the end of the pilgrimage, a symbol of purification and rebirth. It’s not permitted any more. Although some pilgrims still maintain the tradition, we did not. Since these were the only clothes we had with us, we thought it prudent to keep them on, but quite honestly, I was so sick of the same pants, tees and underwear I’d been wearing and rinsing out for the entire Camino, I was tempted to follow tradition. I can always burn them when I get home!
As recommended, we made our way from the Cathedral to the Pilgrim’s Office, an unassuming building about 1/2 mile from the Cathedral. David will explain the process of getting our Compostelas, but it was definitely not what we expected. We were in and out in 15 minutes, Compostelas safely stored in a convenient cardboard tube.
We found the nearby Hotel Entrecercas, our lodging for the next 3 nights, dropped off our backpacks and went in search of breakfast.
We found a wonderful place that served scrambled eggs and toast with a great view of the Cathedral. Our views were short-lived because then the rain came.
It felt odd not rising early, packing up and heading out on the Camino. It was almost bittersweet to finish. We were so keen and focused to complete the walk and arrive in Santiago, but now we were here and the walk was done. We’d given little thought to what we’d do once we arrived and the subsequent time we had left in Portugal.
We spent two more days in Santiago, exploring, wandering, eating, relaxing and resting. It rained two of them, but we were not deterred. The hotel proved to be in a primo spot, close to everything and very comfortable. One morning, we ventured to the Mercado de Abastos de Santiago, a bustling, iconic marketplace in Santiago’s Old Town. Eight stone buildings house everything from fresh produce to fish and seafood, fresh meats, breads and pastries, flowers, wines and liquors. It is the second most visited place in Santiago after the Cathedral and it was a sensory pleasure to meander through each of the food halls to check out the wares. Just click on the thumbnails to enlarge them.
We attended the Noon Pilgrim Mass at the Santiago Cathedral one day. We were told to arrive early, so we showed up at 11:30, evidently not early enough. The entry line was extremely long, snaking across the plaza. When we finally obtained entry, the Cathedral was at full seating capacity, and even standing room was limited. We finally snugged in next to a huge pillar and stood through the entire Mass.
The queue to enter the Cathedral was long and once inside, there was barely any place to stand.
Though the religious/spiritual aspects of the Mass should be the main reason for attending, in actuality, the highlight of the Mass is the Botafumeiro performance. Santiago de Compostela Cathedral’s Botafumeiro is its renowned thurible (big incense burner, aka a censer) and is considered a symbol of both the cathedral and the city. In a ritual that has taken place since the 12th century, eight robed men called tiraboleiros swing the thurible, which is suspended 20 meters (66’) from the central cupola of the cathedral, toward the side aisles of the church using ropes and a complex pulley system. The cathedral fills with smoky incense as the thurible reaches speeds of up to 68 km/hr (42 mph) and nearly touches the ceiling of the cathedral as it swings back and forth. It’s an awesome ceremony to watch; however, so many people crammed in front of us at the last minute that we weren’t able to see as much of it as we would have liked. We borrowed a short video from YouTube so you can watch the whole ceremony if you wish.
After Mass, we had a short opportunity to take photos in the Cathedral until we were ushered out to make room for a tour that was taking place.
We walked to the Alameda Park one morning to view César Lombera’s sculpture of the As Duas Marias… the two Marias, two colorful, eccentric sisters who strolled every day arm in arm in the park at two o’clock sharp every afternoon. The background story here is one of resistance, struggle, suffering, and freedom during the Franco regime. Read more about them here.
As Duas Marias
We wended our way through narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and down the more touristy streets… and there are many. Pilgrims finishing and pilgrims arriving were everywhere. Shops were full; restaurants were full; bars were filled to capacity.
We found plenty to eat, plenty to drink and plenty to spend our money on. For Mother’s Day, David bought me a silver scallop shell ring, a fond remembrance of walking the Camino Portugues.
One option to continue the Camino is to walk from Santiago to Finisterre, ‘land’s end’, another 90 km (56 miles) to the west. We preferred a bus ride to our feet for transportation to ‘the end of the world’. Stay with us for more travels and adventures.